Need Bass

Ok. Im upgrading my stereo. Im looking to get around 1000 watt amp and maybe 3 12s. I need your opinion on what would be the best. I have a couple in mind but I dont know what to get. So many choices.

3 Alpine Type Rs with an Alpine MRD-1000 amp?
3 Alpine Type Rs with an MTX Thunder8001D amp?
Go with some Kicker Square subs and kicker 1200.1?
Rockford BD1001 amp?
So much out there.....

State what brand you think is best. Any amp and any sub.

Im not going to SPL competitions but I do listen to Hip Hop and the occasional techno. Its gonna be in a ported box.

Thanks

DragonJeep wrote:

3 Alpine Type Rs with an Alpine MRD-1000 amp? 3 Alpine Type Rs with an MTX Thunder8001D amp?

TypeRBass wrote:

DragonJeep wrote: 3 Alpine Type Rs with an Alpine MRD-1000 amp? 3 Alpine Type Rs with an MTX Thunder8001D amp?

he got that right

Why do all you people think 3 subs is better?

2 subs will get more watts going to each...keep it in a large box, and you got yourself a great sound.

If you want some vision blurring, gut grumbling bass go for a Resonant Engineering XXX 15" sub. These things are absolutly monsterous. Take a gander at them at www.respl.com

3 alpine R's or Diamond M6 or maybe if you have the money eclipes.

For the amp i would say the alpine M1000 The new digital line would have better sound seperation which would be much better for techno. the kickers have digitals too but they suck the life out of you electrical system. VERY Inefficent.

Thx guys. That XXX Sub is insane looking.

Looks like 3 type Rs with an Alpine MRD-M1000

3 subs for $370 and the amp for $530

Easy way to blow 900 bucs.

Aken wrote:

Why do all you people think 3 subs is better? 2 subs will get more watts going to each...keep it in a large box, and you got yourself a great sound.

Only reason Im doing 3 is because thats the most I can have with a ported Box facing the back of the Jeep and I like the added visual appeal.

Ah, okay.

2 l7 15s

Aken wrote:

Why do all you people think 3 subs is better? 2 subs will get more watts going to each...keep it in a large box, and you got yourself a great sound.

damnnit you are just like the customers who come in my store and **** me off with their antics that they think they know about things... take some electronics and engineering classes and then become a technician to learn the ins and outs of an amplifier and a speaker then you can tell me how amps react to speakers that are hooked up to them.

i don't think 3 subs is better. i know.
here's some cold hard facts for you... more surface area = more bass.

want details:

sound is caused by fluctuations or vibrations in air movement. most of us know that the faster the vibrations, the higher the pitch... and the slower the vibrations, the lower the pitch.

and also, to increase the volume, you increase the pressure of the air during each back and forth movement of the vibration. So volume is regulated by a greater pressure, or amplitude of sound. on the amplifier end there are two ways to increase volume, in which i will get to later...

on the speaker end there are 2 ways to increase volume.

1. you can increase it's range of motion. This can be done by simply "turning up" the amplifier... if the amp is more powerfull than the speaker there comes a point when a speaker cannot handle that anymore. it's either because

a. you've reached the max excursion (distance the cone can travel, based on the size of the surround, and the lenght of the voice coil) (the reason speakers aren't just built with a larger excursion, say 4" is becuase it still has to travel that 4" in the same time a speaker would have to travel the 1" for an equal frequency. the amount of power to do this is exponentially increasing based on the amount of distance), or

b. you've overpowered the voice coil(motor). overheating the voice coil will cause the metal to melt and to fuse to the magnet. (this can be overcome with a larger voice coil winding)

2. you can increase the surface area (in 2 ways)

a. bigger speaker (this becomes inefficient becuase the nature of the material used to build a speaker cone becomes weaker as it becomes larger, and a thicker cone = much more power to do the same job as a thin one.) also the bigger the speaker

b. more speakers (problem would be more voice coils require more power)

now... you have 2 4 ohm subs... parallel to an mtx amp (all class D amps are MONO)... let's say it's 1000 watts @ 4ohms. plug 2 8ohm speakers into it, and now it's 1000watts @ 4ohm... perfect. now 3 speakers @ 8ohms each would be 1500watts 2 2/3 ohms formula is (current 1/x = resistance x) and an amp with a sufficient power supply(MTX is stable down to 2 ohms) would push this @ 1500 watts... 500 per speaker. there is slight loss in the inefficiencies.. but no more than a total of 100 watts on a decent amp.

now back to speakers let's just say they are (for calculation purpose) circles and not cones... with air resistance get's into it, a whole new load of calculations are required... but we know a cone is more surface area than a circle.

remember pi r ^2 for the area of a circle...

so you take a 12" sub and the surface area is (6*6*3.14) >113.09 square inches... per speaker. well 2 is >227.8 square inches and 3 is >340.89 square inches. well if it was a cone it's probably standard around 155 square inches, and this design is overly efficient in the compression of air as it acts as a wedge (a machine you learn about in basic mechanics that gives you mechanical advantage) on the air.

volume is directly related to surface area, so 3 of a speaker at 500 watts each is more than 2 of a speaker at 500 watts each. I cannot provide you with exact calculations, becuase i do not know the efficiency of the speakers you speak of, but whatever the numbers may be... 3x of somthing is more than 2x of somthing...

there are now 2 reasons you won't experience more power... here's the amp end of it

1. the amp is stable to only 4 ohms (in the case of the speakers i presented to you) this would just cut off from overheading becuase the power supply is crap.

2. the power supply is regulated which means it proportionately adjusts the current based on the ohm load to regulate the voltage at the preset (say it's 1000 watts at 4 ohms, and regulated @ 2 ohms... well @ 2 ohms it will be 2000 watts, but at 1 ohm it will still only be 2000 watts.)

DragonJeep wrote:

Ok. Im upgrading my stereo. Im looking to get around 1000 watt amp and maybe 3 12s. I need your opinion on what would be the best. I have a couple in mind but I dont know what to get. So many choices. 3 Alpine Type Rs with an Alpine MRD-1000 amp? 3 Alpine Type Rs with an MTX Thunder8001D amp? Go with some Kicker Square subs and kicker 1200.1? Rockford BD1001 amp? So much out there..... State what brand you think is best. Any amp and any sub. Im not going to SPL competitions but I do listen to Hip Hop and the occasional techno. Its gonna be in a ported box. Thanks

btw.. go with the 3 type Rs with MTX Thunder run Parallel bridged. Never Series bridge your speakers becuase no two speakers will be exactly identical, even if they are the same model from the same manufacturer. This means that they will act slightly different from each other when presented with the same input signal. When wired in series, these differences will cause distortion in the form of back EMF. (electromagnetic field, if you have to ask, DON’T) This EMF will have hazardous effects on your amp and indirectly on your speakers as a result on the damage to the amp.

kicker squares were a marketing ploy... nothing efficient, nothing usefull... but they do hit hard... they went upon the same theory as the millitary did on and F-14 (for those of you who don't know all the aeronotical engineers said it wouldn't fly) if you put a big enough power plant on it, it'll fly. think about it... why have all other manufacturers designed speakers to be conical... becuase that's the most efficient design... the extra weight needed to reinforce this square shape means more power required to push the weight, meaning less efficiency and less bass per watt. just not cost efficient, but looks pretty damn cool.

Q45guy wrote:

If you want some vision blurring, gut grumbling bass go for a Resonant Engineering XXX 15" sub. These things are absolutly monsterous. Take a gander at them at www.respl.com

i don't know about their speakers, but that flash is pretty f'n awesome!

this board is too heavily biased towards Type R's.

You, my friend, need to chill out.

You just wasted a lot of time posting a lot of stuff that I'm not going to read.

I believe his question is why do you need 3 when 2 is more than enough would be based on doing SQ rather than SPL. for SPL, sure, the more surface area the better. For SQ, how much ******* bass do you need?!?! I mean gawd, 3 12 inch Alpine Type R's is enough to give any girl that sits in your seat an orgasm.. =P Did you actually plan on listening to music with your subs? =P

So there you have your 1500 watts of bass, and your combined total of 200 watts of highs.. I think when you're attempting to listen to music, anyone would just say "what highs?" hehe

Now if you are going SPL, then **** the Alpines... Get some W7's =)

<Brandon> W7s are overrated. </Brandon>

And while A2I may have explained all the nice technical stuff, my ears don't lie, and neither do the numbers.

Brandon's 1 15" DD > 3 12" Type Rs. THAT'S why I posted what I did.

it's an article i wrote a few years back, but my draft that's still saved on my pc... if you want the truth about bridging and such, it'll give you the low down...

as for brandon's speakers, i can make 2 of his 15"DD's better than his 1. it's just hands down better probably. 15" speakers are still an efficient design and usually boast about 250 sqare inches surface area.

Well someone woke up an old post.

I already got 3 Alpine Type Rs and an MRD-M1000 (parallel)....

Havent got the box made yet. Im in the process of installing an Oddysey dry cell battery with a Stinger 200amp relay...

Stereo shop is going to be flushing my whole trunk area and yes I can still hear my highs quite well.

you must not have them turned up all the way =P Especially if you are using a ported box.. =P

You think im some punk kid that turns his bass all the way up? I like sound quality too but I also like to be able to have the SPL when I need it.

The subs are not in yet so I dont know how loud its going to be. I have to do some rewiring but trust me ill have it all balanced out....until I see some little civic hatch with 2 walmart 12s then I can crank it up and blow his indiglo gauges right off... or just to **** old people off...