My proposed system (BIG EDIT)

THIS IS THE OLD LIST. scroll down for new one.

THis is my proposed shopping list


My Cart
Quantity Item # Description
1 500MRPF250 Alpine MRP-F250 40W x 4 Car Amplifier
1 236MB212P Magnum Magna Bass MB212P Dual 12" Sealed Box and 250w RMS Am
1 500SPS600C Alpine SPS-600C 6-1/2"/6-3/4" 2-way Component System
1 575RFK4D Rockford Fosgate RFK4D Dual Amplifier Wiring Kit 4 gauge Pow
1 500SPS17C2 Alpine SPS-17C2 6-1/2"/6-3/4" 2-way Car Speakers
1 12071035 Speaker Harness 12071035 speakers
1 142SAC656 Speaker Bracket 142SAC656 5.25"/6.5"
1 12071035 Speaker Harness 12071035 speakers
1 142SAC656 Speaker Bracket 142SAC656 5.25"/6.5"
1 000AMPIG FREE Crutchfield Guide: Amplifier Installation
1 000COMPIG FREE Crutchfield Guide: Component Speakers Installation
1 000SUBIG FREE Crutchfield Guide: Subwoofer Installation
1 000SPKRIG FREE Crutchfield Guide: Full-Range Speakers Insta

Now the only thing that is missing is a HU

Looking at the
Kenwood KVT-719DVD
Jensen VM9312 and Vm9412
Pioneer ADV-----something the less expensive flip joint.

What are your thoughts on my list. obviously if you guys are aware of places were i can get these items for even better prices thats dope. but what is the thought on the overall layout?

Idk if this is something i could do myself. so i may have to figure in labor cost. i've never done speakers only lighting.

THanks.


***New layout list on a new post.******

I have decided to wipe out on the sub, amp, and car speakers im focusing on the core first.

I found that i have two Polk Audio GNX124 12" subs in a **** wood falling ass apart box.

So my new plan is this
get a decent Head unit. i really like the flip out units. then see if i need new speakers

i an always find jensen in the under 400 range. sometimes a pinoneer and a kenwood as well. i know jensen is at the bottom not bad just not the greatest.

Next question is what type of amp and supplies would i need to power those two subs? btw i think one of the subs is busted. or it just rattles alot. im sure it can be fixed. i assume i can find a box locally or online for a decent price. i assumed crutchfield was crazy so i do plan to search elsewhere. thanks again for your help.

I don't know where you are getting those from, I'm assuming Crutchfield from the guides...

But, overall, Crutchfield is usually fairly expensive, may want to check out onlinecarstereo.com or woofersetc.com - I've had good luck with both in the past.

Just as a quick comparison for the Kenwood KVT-719DVD:
Crutchfield: 1,000
OnlineCarStereo: 770
WoofersEtc: 700

Both of those other web-sites are pretty good about backing warranties and being authorized dealers for various things - check before you buy anything though.

Also, they tend to be a little bit more expensive, but not too much more, but CDT Audio speakers are much nicer than Alpine (in my opinion) - could check those out on woofersetc.com

DJ FroZone wrote:

Idk if this is something i could do myself. so i may have to figure in labor cost. i've never done speakers only lighting. THanks.

Changing out everything is very easy. I originally had a friend install my stuff (he worked in Car Audio for years) but over time I have pretty much changed everything and done other people cars myself.

If you have any problems, just post here and I am sure that someone can help you.

The subs are horrible. Better off with two Alpine Type Rs from a local CC or BB w/ an Alpine amp to match it. Crutchfield is way overpriced as well.

First, always match RMS output of amp with RMS max required with speakers if you plan on pounding your system, as you will overheat the amp if you don't.

Second, with most amp companies, it's usually a good idea to subtract 20% roughly of the listed RMS output, as the RMS output listed is based on running at 14.4v, and you will realistically be running the system at 12.2-12.4v

Third, as lbjshaq2345 said, those subs are horrible. I'd agree with her statement about the Alpine Type R's, but I'd only get 1. More than likely, you won't even take full advantage of 1 sub. 2 subs is overkill, and what high school kids do because they think it's cool. What will happen is you'll have it cranked for a week until you get tired of having a headache every time you drive, then you'll end up turning the bass down to a reasonable level and leaving it there. A single 12 has enough output when setup right, to blow your eardrums. 2 is pointless, and just requires a lot more amplifier power, a lot more space, and increases your likeliness of needing to spend a lot of money upgrading your alternator to a high performance one.
(I have a single 12" Sub, and 4 high end speakers in my car, and I ended up dropping $500 into a new alternator after I killed 3 Optima Red Top Batteries in just over a year).

Fourth, don't cheap out. Getting good deals on a good product is one thing. Buying a no-name brand that says it will perform the same as the nice brand, for half the price is a waste of money. They never perform like they say they will, their specs are usually based on peak watts rather than RMS (Continuous power), and in the end, you will end up throwing them out and buying the more expensive ones, so why waste the money on the cheap crap?

Last but not least, just because you hooked it up and it works, doesn't mean it's right. If speakers are not hooked up to an amp properly, they may be overdrawing the amplifier, and while the amp will handle it at first (as it can peak at higher specs than what you are drawing from it), it will die fairly quickly. The amp is only designed to peak on occasion and not be continuously peaked, just as your car isn't designed to be red lined all the time. It's a sure shot way of killing a system. A car will just die faster red lined than a sound system will being overdrawn.

There are plenty of guides to help you go through the install which is fairly simple for the most part as long as you don't mind getting your hands dirty and aren't afraid to take door panels and such apart and put them back together. People here would be more than happy to help answer your questions as well =)

Gotta agree with above. About the amp, Alpine PDX RMS wattage is the 12v wattage. When u purchase one, they give a sheet stating the 12v wattage and the 14.4v wattage. They are small, efficient, low heat, and aesthetically pleasing amps. PDXs are like the small dude that can whoop some ass.

Alpine Type S components suck. Sorry, I know they're cheap, but they suck. I have Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 components and Kappa 692.9i. I'm not suggesting u spend that much money, but I'd suggest Infinity Reference speakers as they are a little cheaper, but still great quality. U also might want to consider some CDT audio speakers.

I'm actually not a fan of Alpine speakers at all. I love their head units and PDX amps though. However, Type R subs are bang for your buck though. I agree with only getting one sub, two is just for looks. I've been pushing this on everyone lately, but look at the JL Audio 12W3v3. That site has a GREAT deal on that sub and it's a top of the line quality sub. On top of that, u definitely won't need/want a second sub with one of those. I'd suggest getting a Alpine PDX 1.600 wired to that sub. For your components, try to get the Alpine PDX 4.150, but if it's too much the Alpine PDX 4.100.

Head unit, if u want single din Alpine CDA 9886. Period. I hate Kenwood, Pioneer's aren't as good for ipod connectivity.

Check out Online Car Stereo or Woofersetc for the best buys.

Sorry dude, systems aren't cheap. Well the ones that suck and **** ur electrical are...

Infinity speakers are awesome, but pricey. If you're looking for big bang for your buck speakers, Pioneers middle range series are affordable but still sound good.

Alpine makes by far, the best quality decks. Unfortunately, they aren't the most asthetically pleasing unless you really spend the big bucks. Alpine is more about quality and functionality than it is about asthetics. Sony is junk, but looks pretty. Clarion is the same company as Sony, so refer to Sony products. Kenwood I think is a dieing animal. I haven't worked with much Kenwood and I keep seeing less and less of it. I wouldn't be suprised if they get absorbed by another company sometime soon.

Take a look at specs when researching decks. Power output doesn't matter as you are going to get a seperate amplifier to power your aftermarket speakers. Even the decks that say 60wX4, are only 17w per channel.. the 60 is peak. When you are buying speakers that want 80w+ RMS, you will overheat the deck in a heartbeat. The first thing you need is a deck with at least 6 pre-outs. 2 for the front speakers, 2 for the rear, and it will have 1 or 2 for the sub. Next, you want to look at features like ipod dock if you plan on docking your ipod, or auxilary input if you plan on just plugging your ipod into the headphones jack. You're going to want to look for things like built in equalizer that will help you customize the frequencies going to your speakers and get everything fine tuned just right. THD doesn't matter much as you aren't using the built in amp. Most of the things having to do with the built in amp doesn't matter to you, as you won't be using it.

That JL sub is nice, but power hungry. If I recall correctly the 12w3 draws something like 600RMS, maybe more. That's a lot of sub. It definately hits hard though, and is no doubt, a nice sub. It really depends on what you like. I prefer the Alpines because they hit clean, and reproduce the low end frequency range really well. The JL Audio's punch harder than just about any other sub on the market, but don't hit all of the frequency ranges as well unless you have a specific box for it (They seem to be more picky on box type when it comes to hitting all of the frequencies with clarity).

Bur rhwew you have it. some advice from some audiophiles =)

I feel Kenwood's aren't the most intuitive or user friendly. My Alpine CDA 9886 I didn't even look at the manual for and I know how to use everything on it. Actually the CDA 9886 is pretty nice looking, especially for an Alpine.

U can still amp the components even with 2 sets of preouts. However, u lose the fade/balance or left/right controls. Another useful feature in a HU, but not necessary, is timing control. U can delay the fronts slightly so the back and front speakers are in sync.

At least u checked here first before buying ur stuff.

I WANT TO SAYY A HUGE THANK U TO THE OZ FAMILY for the help u guys rock. based on ur guys OPs i have revised my list and checked my car.

so now i have new options

DJ FroZone wrote:

I WANT TO SAYY A HUGE THANK U TO THE OZ FAMILY for the help u guys rock. based on ur guys OPs i have revised my list and checked my car. so now i have new options

Edit: Nm saw ur edit.

If u really only have those 3 HU choices, pioneer FTW. Just make sure it has 3 sets of preouts (6 channels total). U can skimp on speakers, I wouldn't on amps & HU.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9835_Dual+X...al+XDVD8183&sonic_special=2# thats an new HU on the board

DJ FroZone wrote:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9835_Dual+XDVD8183.html?name=Dual+XDVD8183&sonic_special=2# thats an new HU on the board

Again HU is gonna be ****. The preout voltage is low and I guarantee there's gonna be quirks about the ipod integration. U get what u pay for with HUs and amps. Splurge for the HU for sure. Think about it, what are u gonna interact with the most out of ur entire system? Plus why do u want the screen so bad? For show or for practical reasons? Read the bad reviews on crutchfield. Pay attention more to bad reviews than good ones.

Piecing the system together a little at a time is fine, but you have to realize that you have to base your purchases on future plans. For example, getting a new deck to start is great.. but don't just get a new deck because it fits your current system. Get a new deck that will fit your future system, so you don't have to buy it again with the additional options.

Getting an amp for subs.. if you are going to use your existing old subs temporarely until you can afford the new subs, don't buy an amp that's limited to being able to power those weaker subs. Get one with specs that will match your new sub you will be getting. Matching your speakers with your amp is very important. Don't customize your amp around those subs unless you don't plan on getting new subs. Otherwise you are throwing money away on an amp you won't be able to use in 6 months.

Your best bet:

Start with a new head unit that will match all of your future plans. Then save some money.

Throw in your new sub, box, and amp to match it, then save some money.

Get your 4 channel amp and speakers to match.

You could flip the orders around, but I wouldn't buy your new speakers and your new head unit and no amp and try to power your new speakers off of the deck for example.. or buy a new amp and try to power a different configuration of subs off of it. If you custom tailor the amp you purchase to the subs you will be purchasing, you end up with 2 problems. The first is that it may not be rated properly for the sub configuration of your old crappy subs you want to use temporarily. Second problem is when you finally do buy the sub you planned on using with that amp, the sub you chose may no longer be in production, and the new version may have different specs that don't match your amp. Buy things as a package. Don't seperate those packages.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14265_Clarion+VRX485VD.html

i think thats head im going for. unless i find a better deal on another higher end model ( i doubt i will) just wish it was more blueish for night time glow

after i get that. i will work on wat to do sub wise.

keep the polk 12" GNX124's or try to sell em and get new ones. (plus bandpass box) and find an amp that has enough power for the speakers that i would add last.

if i can get the one polk fixed that would work cause they sound great.

so
1. HU
2. AMP n Bass
3. Speakas
4. More lighting

if someone finds a good deal on HU's in the styles im looking for let me know

*To answer mad eyes
No one in my area has a flip out hU like that. i've never seen it except when i was looking for HU's that **** is DOPE as hell. double dins are little to laid back for me. i like the flip its like WOAH hello come check me out (dont steal me or die)

can u dig it?

Just one more thing to consider with that kind of HU, with more motorized parts the chances for mechanical failure are greater. I would definitely not do anything cheaper than Clarion.

Mad_Eyes wrote:

Just one more thing to consider with that kind of HU, with more motorized parts the chances for mechanical failure are greater. I would definitely not do anything cheaper than Clarion.

agreed. if i find something better like a pioneer/kenwood/alpine on ebay i'll hop on it