Oznium.com Store
Oznium Forum
The value of this forum is in the interaction with your fellow LED lighting enthusiasts.
Register today! - It is FREE and quick

extreme newbie...connection LED footwell lights

Author
Message
applejaxx522

Joined: Nov 23 2008
Posts: 6


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Sun Nov 23, 2008 7:58 pm

So I've been sitting at the computer trying to research lighting for hours, and I've learned a lot, and now I'm ready to do some ordering, but I'm still uncertain about things. I've def used the search option...but I still am confused...so please bear with me...i have a few questions.

I'm planning on putting 4 9.5"(do you think that's a good length??) flexible blue LED strips in my car, two in the front under dash and two rear.

My confusion lies mostly in connecting all four LEDs...I don't want to screw things up and with all this reading about parallel, series, resistors, etc... it was a little overwhelming.

Here's my idea of how I think things will be done ...5amp fuse and 18 gauge wire(are those ok?)...my diagram is pretty childish looking but I think you see the idea...but it looks like a lot of wires are necessary and long ones at that...is this right??

I know there's the add-a-circuit thing, but I keep reading that eventually ppl end up having to make a connection to the battery. So I don't really know the benefit of doing that over directly going to the battery. Plus I actually understand the battery connection but not so clearly the add a circuit thing.
knatebetz

Joined: Apr 19 2008
Posts: 1504
Location: Nebraska


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:03 pm

add-a-circuit is just easier and you don't have to drill through the firewall

you have it right, so go right for it. tis good you did your research and just asking a bunch of questions like most noobs. follow your own instructions and you should be fine.
applejaxx522

Joined: Nov 23 2008
Posts: 6


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:24 pm

so all those long wires is the way to do things??? I guess it just takes some good concealing to clean things up. Thanks for your reply.

Also...with the add-a-cricuit...so I don't even need to access the battery??...I thought I read that somewhere. So in other words the fuse box becomes my power source instead of the battery??
knatebetz

Joined: Apr 19 2008
Posts: 1504
Location: Nebraska


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:29 pm

if your tapping into the fusebox via add-a-circuit your mostly likely only gonna be able to get power when the key is in the ACC position. which is really annoying after a while, i did it this way and i'm already sick of it.

just go from the battery.. and just solder all the positive to 1 wire and all the negative 1 wire. it's pretty simple stuff. good luck icon_biggrin.gif
Tdawgthegreatest

Joined: Jul 22 2007
Posts: 5093
Location: Florence, Oregon


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:30 pm

I just hook everything straight up to a cigarette lighter or something 12v. I have a total of ZERO lights hooked straight to the battery.
knatebetz

Joined: Apr 19 2008
Posts: 1504
Location: Nebraska


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Sun Nov 23, 2008 8:31 pm

or you could do it that way ^^
applejaxx522

Joined: Nov 23 2008
Posts: 6


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Sun Nov 23, 2008 9:08 pm

thanks everyone...i think I'm gonna do the fusebox because I sort of do want the lights to go on when the car starts....that is what you mean when you say "mostly likely only gonna be able to get power when the key is in the ACC position." right??

Would I still be able to add a switch so I could turn it off even if the car is still running??
applejaxx522

Joined: Nov 23 2008
Posts: 6


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Sun Nov 23, 2008 9:27 pm

you also said "most likely"...which means there is the possibility that the lights won't go on once in acc position...how can I ensure this so there is no doubt...i also don't want to go thru splicing with dome lights.
jdusty914

Joined: May 09 2004
Posts: 1623
Location: Tennessee


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Sun Nov 23, 2008 10:29 pm

Instead of trying to run a wire under the seat all the way to the other side of the car, why not run 1 power wire starting from the back drivers side lights all the way around to the front and the fuse box and also around the passenger side to the lights over there......just have 1 power wire that makes an upside down U shape around the front seats...that way you do not have any wires going from one side to the other under the seat just in case you put stuff under there or people put their feet under there....hope this makes sense...

Also welcome to Oznium....
knatebetz

Joined: Apr 19 2008
Posts: 1504
Location: Nebraska


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Mon Nov 24, 2008 6:15 pm

applejaxx522 wrote:
thanks everyone...i think I'm gonna do the fusebox because I sort of do want the lights to go on when the car starts....that is what you mean when you say "mostly likely only gonna be able to get power when the key is in the ACC position." right??

Would I still be able to add a switch so I could turn it off even if the car is still running??


i said most likely cause there is a few circuits that don't ever turn off. if you go off the fuse of the radio then for sure it will can only be on with the acc/on position

yeah you'll probably want a switch.

and you could run a wire like what jdusty said just through your center console and connect them all.
aznboiquyen

Joined: May 12 2007
Posts: 258


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Mon Nov 24, 2008 7:12 pm

Dude if you're taking that picture seriously. dont drill through the fire wall for your ground. Just ground it on your chair or something. U know the bolt that connects the chair to the chasis? Ground it with that. Or find something else.
Radioflyer

Joined: Sep 25 2007
Posts: 1563


Are you sure you want to delete this post?
  
Post Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:10 pm

There's usually an interior fuesbox You can tap off one of the fuses in there either hot-at-all-times or ignition-hot. For LEDs you don't need a lot of current and you can squeeze a small gauge wire between the fuse and it's holder like so:



Note which side of the fuse is (+) and which is out and you can use that fues to protect your circuit. for larger circuits, you may have to change the fuse value.
The time now is Fri Oct 19, 2018 4:45 am
Page 1 of 1