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LED strips vs. Leviton Acenti switches... need a bit of help

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Gryphon001

Joined: Apr 28 2009
Posts: 11


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Post Sat Aug 14, 2010 10:28 am

I ended up installing the under counter lighting in my house finally. Decided to go with the Acenti line switches for esthetic reasons and seem to be having a bit of an issue. Apparently the switches are letting some current bleed through and it builds up somewhere till it's enough to fire the LEDs.

Now I have the LEDs flashing every 10 seconds or so and nothing I could do helped any.

Any suggestions as to what I could do? Relay? Resistor? Need to get this under control before someone gets a seizure.

The switch:




has a blue LED in the bottom which goes out when switch is on. Not sure it that's part of the problem.

The LEDs:

I have 7 of the Surface Mount LED bars and two LED floods...

https://www.oznium.com/home-led/home-smd-led-bar
https://www.oznium.com/home-led/home-led-flood-light

hooked up through the 2.5 amp transformer...

https://www.oznium.com/power-adapters/waterproof-led-transformer
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
Posts: 3550


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Post Sat Aug 14, 2010 11:56 am

I'd check for voltage feeding the AC/DC transformer, if there is leakage check the switch.
Gryphon001

Joined: Apr 28 2009
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Post Sat Aug 14, 2010 1:24 pm

I know there is leakage... That's the switch design sadly. Tried the one recommended by the manufacturer and it didn't work at all.
Cooper

Joined: Mar 19 2006
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Post Sat Aug 14, 2010 4:00 pm

This is just an on/off switch, not a dimmer switch, right ?
bad venge

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Post Sat Aug 14, 2010 5:51 pm

I'd try a standard switch and see if that cures things
Gryphon001

Joined: Apr 28 2009
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Post Sat Aug 14, 2010 6:26 pm

It is an on/off switch only. Dimmers are hooked up to the halogen potlights only. Did try the 'normal' switch and all was good. Problem is that it's a 3 gang setup with the dimmers and can't just have one normal switch and 2 of the acenti side by side.
Gryphon001

Joined: Apr 28 2009
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Post Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:45 pm

Well, I finally got through to someone at Leviton who seemed to know what they were talking about... apparently the switches require minimum 40W load to function properly.

Guess it's time to find a resistor... preferably one that won't burn my house down.

Any suggestions as to what specs I would need in a 40 watt (or maybe better 30W) resistor? It will likely be installed in a cabinet with the transformer.
bad venge

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Post Wed Sep 01, 2010 5:01 am

I'd install a 40 watt bulb to load it
Gryphon001

Joined: Apr 28 2009
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Post Fri Sep 03, 2010 12:44 am

2 resistors... 25K 25W and the floods are still flashing. (Faintly though and the light bars have finally stopped)... Looks like I will need a third one, but that should do the trick.

You'd figure with how popular LED lighting is becoming the switch manufacturers would get on board and make compatible switches.
ADDICTED2ICELED

Joined: Nov 24 2003
Posts: 1503
Location: Atlanta, GA


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Post Fri Sep 03, 2010 5:31 am

get a toggle switch like that. this looks like a single pole electronic switch, that's why the load is required.

or fine the 2 pole version. if the house is fairly new the'll be a neutral wired up in the back of the box.
Gryphon001

Joined: Apr 28 2009
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Post Sat Sep 04, 2010 9:20 pm

ADDICTED2ICELED wrote:
get a toggle switch like that. this looks like a single pole electronic switch, that's why the load is required.

or fine the 2 pole version. if the house is fairly new the'll be a neutral wired up in the back of the box.


They don't have the 2 pole switches, it's only a single pole or a single pole/3way application switches. I already looked into it... and the house is definitely not new, it's at least 30 years old. The wiring is a bit messed up.
ADDICTED2ICELED

Joined: Nov 24 2003
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Post Sat Sep 04, 2010 9:45 pm

then you won't get any luck with that.

and hooking up a resistor straight to your AC? only if you like to start house fires...

and your transformer that powers it most likely won't be enough wattage to hold the switch in.

Buy another brand of toggle. they sell them at home depot for cheap.
bad venge

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Post Sun Sep 05, 2010 5:27 am

As mentioned before ADD a conventional 40 watt bulb elsewhere (in the closet ) anywhere you might want to add light. this will disapate the energy safely and allow the switch to work properly. you can also do the same thing with 4- 10 watt bulbs if you want to use smaller bulbs
ADDICTED2ICELED

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Post Sun Sep 05, 2010 6:41 am

kinda defeats one of the point of using LED's if you're gonna toss a 40w bulb in the there.
and i'm kinda afraid that will still cause the lights to possibly flicker.

You see that LED on the switch needs to be powered to turn on. the only way it can be powered is if it run in series with the load (for ac power you need at least a hot and neutral), so the switch will still leak current if this led is being powered. The 40w bulb will still have enough impedance to not even do anything with this switch, while the low impedance transformer might still have enough power to flicker on and off the LED's.


why not use a normal low profile switch switch such as
bad venge

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Post Sun Sep 05, 2010 6:05 pm

the switch needs load it's powering an ac/dc supply but not enough watts causing the leakage current to allow bulbs to flicker. The incandesant bulbs will disapate the power and provide the needed load
Gryphon001

Joined: Apr 28 2009
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Post Fri Sep 10, 2010 8:57 pm

I finally won the war with the light switch... biglaugh.gif

I ended up prying the face plate off and than found that I can just remove the circuit board with the LED... now no LED (small sacrifice) but the lights work perfectly. That was the flaw in the switch, the LED board was leaking current.

Thanks for the input guys... much appreciated.
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