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*** LED/Switch Installation Help ***

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aeraiva

Joined: Dec 06 2012
Posts: 5


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Post Thu Dec 06, 2012 6:41 pm

Im wanting to know if the following installation is correct and suitable for my car. What car I have doesnt matter much (though it's a 97 civic hx) but I want to make sure this wiring is correct. Reason being, I bought some led lights from autozone (i know, i know, CRAP) and installed them into my pre-made wiring harness... much like the diagram. all my points were soldered together then wrapped well with electrical tape. no bends or splits in the wires, nothing. so, i install the lights under my center unit under the dash pointing down. i have my switch on my center console/above e-break. well, 1 of the 4 switches installed. all of the switches say "12v 30a" on them, which im quite sure means thats what it can handle. fine. so four of those are wired in. all of them connected to one secure ground, free of rust/paint etc. the power wires on all four of them come together and go to my fuse tap i purchased. i tapped into my power windows since they currently use 20a. connected the fuse tap, put in the original 20a fuse and then added my 20a fuse for this new circuit. now, for the switch i have set up, i ran all 4 of the power wires from the led's to it (acting now as the lead wires) and obviously grounded all the led's to that main ground. the switch i have has a blue led tip when it is flicked on, keep that in mind.

heres the problem. i turn on the car so the switch can get power, and all the lights look fine. the switch is lit up and all 4 led's are good. about 10 minutes later, one of the led's goes out... waits a couple seconds and comes back on... then oes the same thing again and again and again. i taped on the light and gently moved a couple wires from it around behind the dash but nothing. it was really irritating so i figured i would cut it off and have just 3 lights under there since they were all working fine. so i do that and the same thing starts to happen to the next light. now, i believe in coincidences but the other 3 were all acting fine. they dont all phase off then on at once, and only one does it. also, the led tipped switch doesnt flicker either. is there something wrong with this wiring diagram i have or is it quite possibly just POS lights from autozone? im leaning towards the POS lights but would like to get ideas before wiring in some new ones.

also, im aware that it is not NEEDED to have an inline fuse running to each switch. i have all 4 switches running off the same 20a fuse tap which basically is the same thing. if there is a ground, the 20a fuse in the fuse box blows, and i find my ground and fix the problem etc. i just dont want to be told that the problem is not having an in-line fuse on there lol.

and thank you in advance for any help or feedback. just a simple "its fine" works or "wiring is correct". no need to bash on me for typing up this damn novel.... just wanted to provide as much information as possible. thanks.


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bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
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Post Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:54 pm

I'm not following your diagram at all
each LED should be fed by a seperate switch + feeding from the switch to the LED
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
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Post Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:57 pm

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Basically this X4
aeraiva

Joined: Dec 06 2012
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Post Fri Dec 07, 2012 1:26 am

gotcha. the pack came with 4 led lights rigged to one wire.. basically all the wires came together to be used all at once. i just kept it that way was all. i can seperate each led to its own switch but in the long run... im going to have a TON of switches and no room for them all.

so even though they all 4 came together, i should seperate them with their own switches? below is a picture of the lights i purchased from autozone along with a link to the actual product:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Ty...-265c?itemIdentifier=204999_0_0_
aeraiva

Joined: Dec 06 2012
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Post Fri Dec 07, 2012 1:30 am

and i spoke with a rep at autozone along with one at napa who each said that it's quite fine to have them all wired to the same switch. it is still optional to have that inline fuse for each one, though not needed at all. each light operates at 0.0415 amps... making it the .1666 amps total (with it being 12v and 2 wats, that makes .1666 amps). each switch its connected to can carry a load of 30a... and all 4 switches are wired to a 20 amp fuse (though i should be quite fine with just a 10amp fuse).

when i showed them my diagram, they said it should be perfectly fine and that a very likely reason to that one light, then the second light flickering is just a cheap led. they get people coming in often getting money back... so im not sure im going to be buying those cheap lights again is all.

thank you for the feedback though as well. any additional feedback is highly appreciated.


Last edited by aeraiva on Fri Dec 07, 2012 2:07 am, edited 1 time in total
aeraiva

Joined: Dec 06 2012
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Post Fri Dec 07, 2012 1:31 am

and basically, the reason each switch has it's own power wire is because they have led's on them lighting up when switched on. therefore, the power wire for the actual led lights im using acts as the switch's "lead" wire.

heres a new diagram. i left out one switch but it's the same none the less. do i REALLY need a load resister before each led light?

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bad venge

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Post Fri Dec 07, 2012 6:16 am

since these are 12volt , they have the load resistor built in or are wired in series to take the 12 volt supply

since you say one id going off/on sounds like a bad set of 4 lights

I'm not understanding why you need 4 switches you can easily wire all 4 into one unless you want individua; control
aeraiva

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Post Fri Dec 07, 2012 9:37 am

bad venge wrote:
since these are 12volt , they have the load resistor built in or are wired in series to take the 12 volt supply

since you say one id going off/on sounds like a bad set of 4 lights

I'm not understanding why you need 4 switches you can easily wire all 4 into one unless you want individua; control



well those first set of 4 (which is one package of lights) is lighting for under that climate control part of my dash. a second set will be wired into my air vents, and a third possible wired into the trunk or for the back seats. each set will have it's own switch so if i dont want the backseats lit, i can turn them off. or maybe i just want the air vents to have accent lighting etc.

so that package above that i posted of the actual led's from autozone, that entire package is 4 of those blue dots connected to one switch on my diagram. i believe that the resistor is built in with them because when you look at one of the pieces (which actually contains two little blue led bulbs), there is a little tiny thing connecting the two. im quite sure that's a load resistor. either way, im really leaning on just crappy lights and not bad wiring but would always like to make sure.
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