Car Lighting
Installation
Other Products
Thin, Waterproof, pre-wired, and reliable: LED Ribbon Strips
All Customer Questions
Question
How are the positive and negative wires identified if I need to cut them off to splice them into my car's wiring? Does it matter which one is positive? What is the best method you recommend for splicing in car applications? Is the illuminating angle still 140 degrees for them? - by sergey
Answer
There should be a white strip on the positive wire. If not, you can always just test them directly to a 12v source. Try it one way, if it doesn't work, switch it around. Won't hurt anything. It does matter which is positive, they will only light up one way. Car applications vary greatly, see our Forums for many write-ups on splicing into your vehicle. And yes, the LEDs are the same.
Question
If I purchased a 24" strip would I be able to cut it right in the center so that there would be two 12" strips with only one power connector on each? I know the description says you can cut every few leds, so I'm just worried I'd have one section longer than the other.
Answer
Yep you should be able to
Question
can the million color strip (6" specifically) be cut every third LED also? - by Brett (South Carolina)
Answer
Yes
Question
looking to buy a few of these. i need 1-2ft one and 2-6in ones. i understand they can be powered at either end but can the end not being used be cut off or does it need to remain? and also, if the connections are not long enough to reach to the next strip would you recommend not cutting them or can these be cut and extended without a problem? some strips wont work if theyre cut.
do you sell extensions for them so i wouldnt have to extend it? - by kevin
do you sell extensions for them so i wouldnt have to extend it? - by kevin
Answer
Feel free to cut off the wires. You only need to power it from one end. The other end is for your convenience so that you can daisy chain them together. If you cut off one end, nothing bad will happen.
You can cut the LED strip between every three LEDs.
We do offer a 3 foot extension cable. Here: http://www.oznium.com/linear-light-extension-cable
You can cut the LED strip between every three LEDs.
We do offer a 3 foot extension cable. Here: http://www.oznium.com/linear-light-extension-cable
Question
Do you sell or know of a way to easily hook this to a cars wiring?
Answer
Yes. Cut the power wire in the car, then connect the postive wire to that. Reconnect wires together. Ground the negative wire.
Question
Is the yellow an amber yellow or a bright yellow?
Answer
Amber Yellow
Question
Are these strips common anode, or common cathode? - by Craig (Spokane)
Answer
Common positive.
Question
What other product(s) does this need to work?
Answer
A 12V battery. We encourage a fuse between the car/motorcycle battery and the strips.
Question
what are the mcd specs on these lights?
Answer
Check out the technical info from the non-waterproof version of these strips: http://www.oznium.com/led-ribbon/tech The LEDs are exactly the same, just waterproof!
Question
I've got three questions. My application is architectural. I want to use the strip as a continuous downlight installed at the top of a translucent polycarbonate wall. And I think the "neutral white" would probably be best for this application. The wall runs for 51' 9".
1) The run of LEDs needs to be pretty much flat along its entire length, and the pattern of light points needs to be continous. It looks like the best way to make that happen would be to use your other product with the solder connections. The website's a little confusing though. There's a photo on that page showing the three shades of white, but only warm white is included on the price list. Are the three shades of white available in that product?
2) Using your 12.5A transformer, how much reduction in brightness might I expect across a run of that length?
3) Do you know the color temperatures for the three shades of white?
Thanks very much,
Mark in Seattle
1) The run of LEDs needs to be pretty much flat along its entire length, and the pattern of light points needs to be continous. It looks like the best way to make that happen would be to use your other product with the solder connections. The website's a little confusing though. There's a photo on that page showing the three shades of white, but only warm white is included on the price list. Are the three shades of white available in that product?
2) Using your 12.5A transformer, how much reduction in brightness might I expect across a run of that length?
3) Do you know the color temperatures for the three shades of white?
Thanks very much,
Mark in Seattle
Answer
I agree, its a bit confusing for this one. We're phasing out the gold strip (replacing with the black one), and thus only a few colors are still available.
The black one is the newer style which is already pre-wired so you don't have to solder.
The solder points are still actually there on the strip just like the gold one, but they are hidden. You simply have to scrape away a bit of the black to expose the solder point. Or, you can also access the solder point from the backside of the strip, under the 3M tape.
But, I don't think you really need to solder. You can still keep the pattern of light points continuous. Plug in the strips together, butt the ends up to each other, and have the 6 inches or so of extra wire pushed off to the side.
We don't really recommend using more than 32 feet in a continuous length because the copper in the flexible circuit board can't handle that much power. You can easily get around this though by running say, a new power wire to each 16 foot length of strip from the original power source. An 18 gauge wire would be fine.
Sorry, I don't know the color temperatures for the three shades. From what I've found, LED suppliers are a bit inaccurate in what they tell you, so its difficult to trust that the specs are even accurate. Perhaps you'd like to order one of each of the 6 inch length to test, and see which will work best for your application?
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions.
The black one is the newer style which is already pre-wired so you don't have to solder.
The solder points are still actually there on the strip just like the gold one, but they are hidden. You simply have to scrape away a bit of the black to expose the solder point. Or, you can also access the solder point from the backside of the strip, under the 3M tape.
But, I don't think you really need to solder. You can still keep the pattern of light points continuous. Plug in the strips together, butt the ends up to each other, and have the 6 inches or so of extra wire pushed off to the side.
We don't really recommend using more than 32 feet in a continuous length because the copper in the flexible circuit board can't handle that much power. You can easily get around this though by running say, a new power wire to each 16 foot length of strip from the original power source. An 18 gauge wire would be fine.
Sorry, I don't know the color temperatures for the three shades. From what I've found, LED suppliers are a bit inaccurate in what they tell you, so its difficult to trust that the specs are even accurate. Perhaps you'd like to order one of each of the 6 inch length to test, and see which will work best for your application?
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any further questions.
