Meguiars Gold Class

I just had to make a thread. I figured I'd try it after I washed my car this morning and WOW. I wasn't too impressed at first, but the after effect is amazing. Pics of my shiny car once I manage to make my tires presentable.

on another note...I just ordered my whisper intake lid w/holley powershot filter. after that comes in and I install it, I'm going 3" headerback exhaust. I'm on the road to low 13's soon (not with just exhaust/intake of course)

I love that stuff. Very shiny afterwards. For tires I would get meguiars tire shine. Its in a black spray can. Like 5 dollars. The best stuff I have used and lasts awhile even when gets wet.

I have some armor-all tire shine in a black can..I wasn't paying attention and rinsed it off though. I reread the instructions and it didnt mention that part, so I'm gonna try again

Keep in mind that Gold Class is natural (carnuba based) and will not have the durability of a synthetic like NXT. But, being carnba-based, it has a luster that's truly great. SOme people have complained about Gold Class having a static problem when buffed, especially if you use a Porter Cable RO polisher, but this is a bigger deal if you store the car outside (it will attract dust faster). I use Gold Class myself on my car (by hand) and love it.

Some of my Mini friends are experimenting with Prima brand finishes (available at Detailer's Paradise: http://www.detailersparadise.com/View.asp?Id=5512302005505582-691513519685) and are reporting some VERY promising results. Prima is a synthetic, so it's very durable and does not seem to have the static issues of Gold Class nor the dust issues that NXT seems to suffer from. I'm working on obtaining some review product from the manufacturer soon and will let peolple know what I think.

If you had an LS1 you would run low 13's stright out of the gate.

ive used it, and found it difficult to work with, esp on a black car. also noticed the bad static problem.

turtle wax ice, ftw.

I've had the same experience with it as Justin...overall hated it.

not a fan of the turtle wax either

Mothers or zymol FTW

I like the Meguiars product line, been using the Chrome Cleaner every single wash and boy that stuff really makes those wheels shine!!!

The_Mastor wrote:

I like the Meguiars product line, been using the Chrome Cleaner every single wash and boy that stuff really makes those wheels shine!!!

yes some of it is very nice. I, personally, really like their "hot wheels" wheel cleaner.

I dont like their wax's but love their ScratchX and some of their other polishing/buffing compounds. Their claybar is moderate but I like the mothers one better. I love their endurance tire gel and leather conditioner too.

Hot wheels is a great wheel cleaner IMHO. I like Meguiar's tire and plastic/vinyl dressing quite a bit as well, and their detail spray is very easy to work with.

mind filling me in on what claybar is and its usefulness? I handwax (no buffer) and tend to not have static problems from it. takes a bit longer though (esp doing more than 1 coat)

stasis- wrote:

mind filling me in on what claybar is and its usefulness? I handwax (no buffer) and tend to not have static problems from it. takes a bit longer though (esp doing more than 1 coat)

Claybar helps remove particles from the finish, give the paint a smooth clean finish.

Here's a GREAT article on what clay bar is and what it does:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-clay.html

In a nutshell, clay bar is a ultra-fine suspension of polishing particles in a rubbery, moldable base. It removes contaminents from clear-coat and colored paint, so that when you apply wax, the bad stuff won't eat away further into the paint and into the bottom surface of the wax. I can say from experience that even brand new paint will benefit IMMENSELY from a simple claying - it left dealer-fresh paint feeling ultra-slick and smooth, and only the use of a mechanical polisher made it better. Not bad AT ALL for somethign that only costs like $12-$15.

NOTE: used-up or dropped clay (DO NOT REUSE AFTER BEING DROPPED or it WILL scratch the paint) can still be used on power-coated wheels and to clean glass... It gets it slick like Rain-X but without applying a coat of a laminate... Works TERIFFIC!

Here's a little How-to I wrote one weekend after playing with a fellow car club buddy's clay bar and random orbital car polisher:

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75603

Here's a thought.. my paint looks decent from a few feet back but up close there's all kinds of particles 'in' it . I'm guessing that they're on top of the paint but underneath several coats of wax . Sometimes when I scratch the bits with my finger nails aggressively I can 'pop' them out and sometimes not . I try not to make it any worse by rubbing each panel down with a damp cloth and then a microfiber towel right before I wax it, but how would I go about getting up all the bits that are already under there ? Assume I'd have to remove all the wax and get back to the clear coat (assuming its not in the clear) . What's the best way to do this ?

Little black and orangish colors are gonna be the particles in the clear coat. A clay bar will do wonders to get them out. I wish I had before and after photos of my trunk - I had tons of little rust speckles due to debris like that, and the claybar made it all disappear.

The clay bar, however, will remove polish, wax, etc... So you'll have to redetail wherever you claybar.

btw te little oangeish rust **** n ur car is called rail dustt

Strip the wax off before clay barring, or the bar will get loaded up with wax too quick. Use Dawn dishwashing liquid to remove the wax - about 3 tablespoons in a 5-gallon bucket is just about right. Then, after washing, use the clay bar.

Be sure to follow the directions and use a good lubricant - the clay should hydroplane across the surface of the paint and NOT stick or drag at all. Check the clay and you'll see the contaminents on the clay - re-knead and re-shape the clay to expose fresh material as you work. You can use detailing spray (any brand) to lube the bar, or you can just use fresh car wash water/dish soap solution (don't use the dirty stuff you washed the car withm as dirt in the water can scratch the paint).

NOTE: Clay bar will NOT remove scratches or swirl marks - it simply cleans the paint and preps it for polishing or waxing. If you look at the paint in the sun and see a halo of circular scratches around the sun reflection (sometimes called "cobwebbing"), then you'll need a good polish like ColorX of Meguiar's M80 Pro-line polish to restore the smooth finish. This can be used by hand or, ideally, with a RANDOM ORBITAL polisher like a Porter Cable.

http://www.detailersparadise.com/View.asp?Id=821232004228071-2491365464

The link above is actually a great bundle - comes with the polisher, pads and pad holder, and is perfect for everything from heavy cutting for deep, extensive scratches to fine, ultra-thin wax applications. If the cost is too high, I recommend getting together a few people and getting one for your car club - you won't be using the polisher more than a few times a year, so sharing is a good thing. It's so fun to use, though that you might just get addicted.

do NOT use dawn. Using a chemical that is designed to remove oil and grease on paint is a horrible idea. By using dawn you will remove the paint and clear coat's natural oils that help keep it looking good. They make products just for removing wax, use them. Most polishes will remove wax for you becasue they are slightly abrassive.

A clay bar will NOT remove wax, UNLESS the last time you wax you waxed over all the crap the clay bar removes. And if you are rubbing hard enough to remove the wax, you are rubbing way to hard.

If you paint does not feel like clean glass after you wash it, you need to use a clay bar. After a clay bar I would reccomend polishing it and waxing it. You will be supprised how easy the polish and wax is now that you are spread it onto a clean surface.

edited for spelling

Interesting you say that about Dawn... the "classic" blue Dawn is actually recommended by several professional car detailers I know (ShowCargarage. etc.) as a good wax removal product. There are several car-care products out there labeled as "car wash shampoo" that do the same thing, but Dawn is easy to come by.

Since clear coat is basically untinted paint, I'm not sure what "naturual oils" you're talking about. Carnuba oil is a natural wax, and Dawn (or any other good car shampoo) will certainly strip it off the clear coat, but that's the point of prep: removing anything and everything that's sitting on top of the clear coat or paint surface prior to polishing. I'll check with my contacts regarding that, though - maybe they know something I don't.

Logically, I'm not sure how clay bar would NOT remove wax... since it's, in effect, an abrasive mix in a malleable polymer base, it should grind off anything and everything that's sitting on top of the clear coat.

I do totally agree on the simplicity of applying wax to a clayed surface, though... Ideally, the wax application and removal step should require little "elbow grease".

ImagoX wrote:

Interesting you say that about Dawn... the "classic" blue Dawn is actually recommended by several professional car detailers I know (ShowCargarage. etc.) as a good wax removal product. There are several car-care products out there labeled as "car wash shampoo" that do the same thing, but Dawn is easy to come by. Since clear coat is basically untinted paint, I'm not sure what "naturual oils" you're talking about. Carnuba oil is a natural wax, and Dawn (or any other good car shampoo) will certainly strip it off the clear coat, but that's the point of prep: removing anything and everything that's sitting on top of the clear coat or paint surface prior to polishing. I'll check with my contacts regarding that, though - maybe they know something I don't. but even if you remove and replace all the oils in the paint that you see, what about all the areas that dawn will get to that you wont wax, cant reach, or cant rinse well enough to get it all off. So why would you use a product that you cant control where it goes? Logically, I'm not sure how clay bar would NOT remove wax... since it's, in effect, an abrasive mix in a malleable polymer base, it should grind off anything and everything that's sitting on top of the clear coat. yes it may be abrassive in a sense, but you should not have to push hard enough for it to actually be able to pull the wax off. If you use the lube and basicly just slide it back and forth, it shouldn't take it off. I do totally agree on the simplicity of applying wax to a clayed surface, though... Ideally, the wax application and removal step should require little "elbow grease".should be pretty much effort free

edit, also note that you can clar bar EVERYTHING... (obviously you cant clar bar textured plastic but smooth surfaces) I clay my car from the top down, which includes windows, I have shinny plastic trim pieces, mirrors, HL and TL, and when I am near completion I will do the wheels. and liscense plate.

Absolutly! I clay plastic bumpers and everything else. As I mentioned, used-up clay or clay that you accidentally drop on the floor (which instantly picks up grit) can still be re-used for windows. I clayed my windsheild in July and wanter still beads up on it like I used Rain-X... it;s really something.