LED Retrofit - Lots of pictures

Howdy.. I don't post TOO much around here. I'm more of a watcher. I'm doing a LED retrofit, I figured you guys would like to see it. I haven't finished it yet, But its moving along quickly now.


Heres the Housing. The dimples threw off my plans, but it'll end up working better. I wanted a fully clear (Minus the dimples to dissipate light), but it might look better, might not. I shoved a LED in there for test purposes, and I was happy.


The LEDs. 48 Superflux Per Tail light. I'm running two circuits per tail light, with 24 in each circuit. That'll get explained down a bit.


One of the Superflux's in the Housing.




I thought I could bake the housings. Anyone who has tried to bake Tail lights, its not fun. I tried hot water, I baked them, and it didn't get everything. I had to use my dremel for quite a bit of the cutting. I used the wrong bit, and it melted/hacked up some of the light, but its not noticeable.. So I'm happy.

Next step was to make a cardboard cutout of how I needed to cut my Perforated board. It was a lil challenge to get it right, took a few trys, but I got it.




I never took pictures of the Reverse light cut outs.

I Decided to lay the LEDs out on a board so I can get an Idea on how I wanted to mount my LEDs.

It will consist of two circuits. Both Regulated by a LM317 with a 10 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor. I'm doing a constant current regulation, so thats why theres only one resistor ;).

The parking light circuit will consist of 24 LEDs, around the perimeter of the brake light housing. A PWM (Pulse Width Modulator) will regulate the intensity of the LEDs.. a 50%-60% load will regulate the parking lights.
The PWM isn't going to Physically Dim the LEDs, but make it appear dimmer. It makes the LEDs flash so quick that the human eye can't detect it, and makes it appear dimmer. Thats the best way I can explain what it does..


The Brake/Turn signals will have the 24 Inner LEDs, and Light up the outer Halo to a full 100%.


The LEDs WILL Get moved around once I actually solder them up.

I cut the perf boards out next.












Then I made the bend. I used a Steel Clothes hanger, and Copper thread like stuff. I bent the Clothes hanger, and pretty much sewn the Perf board to the Clothes hanger, then I soldered the copper to try to keep a tight bond. I'm not to worried about it breaking a part in the housing, as it'll be glued in there too.















Then I painted it with "Chrome" Paint.





Looks more like silver paint if you ask me, but thats just me.

Here's the PWM.. I used a Quickar Kit. Simple to build if ya know how to read a wiring diagram, if not, find a picture and go from there.

Out of the box.


All the parts.


Give ya an idea on how small it is. Pain in the ass to solder on.


I organized all the parts.


Built.



I took a vid with it hooked up to 3 of Phils Blue 5mm LEDs. Shows ya what it can do pretty much.

I'm hoping on getting some wiring done tomorrow, but I can't be sure if I can get it done or not. Whatcha Think?

What do you plan to do with that PWM? Sorry, not too familiar with it. Looks like it's just a dimmer for LEDs, which is cool. Nice tails.

Dim down the parking light circuit. Otherwise they'll be pretty bright for parking lights.

looks good, looks like you did your research.

I hope you plan to voltage regulate also. The PWM wont regulate voltage, only pulses them.

corvettecrazy wrote:

looks good, looks like you did your research. I hope you plan to voltage regulate also. The PWM wont regulate voltage, only pulses them.

LM317.. Going with a constant Current circuit.

I've got those *EXACT* tail lights, and I love em. I'm planning on doing a LED retrofit, but haven't gotten around to it yet. Now you're my test dummy! GET BACK TO WORK, SLAVE! lol...

Keep postin pics, can't wait to see the finished product! Good Luck!

PMW= puslse width modulation. it allows you to slow down a motor not by lowering its input voltage but by sending it the full voltage in varying pulses so it slows down but doesnt loose its torque.

GlowinPontiac wrote:

PMW= puslse width modulation. it allows you to slow down a motor not by lowering its input voltage but by sending it the full voltage in varying pulses so it slows down but doesnt loose its torque.

Yeah, Thats what I meant. lol.

itzbjorn - Be prepared. Its quite a bit of work.


I got some white LEDs soldered on, I expected to only fit 12 for the back up lights.. I got 12 on one right now, and its 1/4 full. I'm gonna move them around a bit though, right now i'll have jumper wires EVERYWHERES, and it's just going to be a giant mess and I don't think it'll hold up over time will all the jumpers I would need.

I saw this on s10forum, looks great so far!

pOrk wrote:

I saw this on s10forum, looks great so far!

lol Thanks! Its kinda funny, cause I've been researching and buying stuff for the past 3-4 months. And every time I think I know what I'm doing, or have a grasp on everything, something else comes up and throws me way off, and effects everything. I seriously did the calculations for my LM317 8 or 10 different times. With different LED counts, different amperage, Voltage.. I regulated it by current, and voltage.

Thats just how it works, better to find and correct the problem now before their installed in the bed of the truck and not lighting at all

Yeah, I'd be ****. I'm thinking about making it so I can tear the Tails back apart in case my wiring fails or something happens.. I could just pop them open pretty quick and fix the problem. I'm thinking a few JB Weld spot welds here and there, then lay a bead of silicone or Hot glue around the rest of it. It'll seal it up great, and be secure.

I bought some Connectors Last night. I wanted to keep the OE wiring, and I was just going to get some Molex Connectors, but those were $4 a set. A user on a different site led me onto 3157 Bulb Bases. I damn near had an accident.. Instantly fell in love.. And $.59 a piece, you can't beat it.



http://autolumination.com/3157_3156.htm

if the LM317 is a voltage regulator
http://www.muzique.com/schem/lm317.htm

I am curious about what your plans are for actually wiring the LED's and your schematic for the current regulator. 3 per series in parallel with a bunch of series?

I'm using the LM317 to limit current. I Use one resistor instead of two.

I'm going to do 4 per Series. 6 parallel series per circuit. I really don't have a wiring schematic online for the brake/parking lights. Tomorrow I'll post my calculations, I'm about ready to crash..

For the Reverse lights, I'm not regulating them... I think. I have more then enough LM317's. They will only be used here and there. I've got the ones I done in series of 4 right now. Forward voltage is at 3.4 volts, So I'm under powering them a bit. I'm thinking about running the regulator to them, and I'll be able to get 3.4 Volts to each of them, instead of the 3 volts to each.

I'm going to retract the last statement, I am going to regulate them.


Excuse the mess in my kitchen.. It was I clean it up before and after, or Clean it up after.. You can tell which one I chose.

Got the one of the reverse lights wired up. 27 LEDs, Wired in series of 3. They will be regulated, so thats why they are in series of 3.

First few wired on.



Some more on there.


And for some reason, I don't have a pic with All the LEDs on there with out them on.

Heres the wiring. Kinda sloppy at the top, For some reason, it looks like the Positive and negative are wired together for the wires.



12 Lit up pointing at my toaster


All of them lit up. They have 3 volts a piece for these pictures.


In the housing. I really couldn't get a good picture to show the output. The output isn't that great, but its pretty freaking bright when you look at it.

Is it going to be bright enough to light the way? Probably not eh?

Nah, but it'll look badass though.

I got thinking about leaving a bulb for the back up lights. Then I thought its not going to be as cool. The tint that I have on the back window makes it hard enough to see out the rear as it is.. I generally stick my head out the window.

I was going to use Superfluxs.. But the viewing angle was fairly wide.

Maybe some 10MM LEDs for reverse lights

tuck a set of fog lights under your bumper and put them on a switch. use them when necessary.

I thought about using some 10mm.. I decided to go with the 5mm's.

I like the fog lights, but I'll have a roll pan and drop here within the next few months, It'd look funny.

I thought about making a bracket similar to those "Hidden License Plate" things.. Where it hides behind the roll pan and when you turn your truck on, it'll pop out. But I'll just have it drop down. It'd be cool to have.

Other pod is wired up.


Wiring.. Pretty cool ehh?







Yeah, the Pods don't look like they are pointing even, but I need to trim one of the pods up a bit to make it fit a little bit better.

I got some 3157 Bulb bases in (So it'll be a plug and play, for the most part. Assuming I can fit the PWM, voltage regulators (and Heatsink) and LEDs in the housing, but I won't push it, it could get hot in there), and I hope to have the PWM's positively switched tomorrow. And possibly start on wiring the Parking lights. We'll see.

Ok, More work done. PWM's are modded, and started on the weather proofing. Current Regulators are wired up, and parking lights for one side is wired up.

Pics.

You can see the LEDs better in person, but the camera doesn't do much justice.
Pics.

PWM rewired. 3 Wires, which means is positively switched now.. Its a glorious thing.


3157 Bulb Base


Current Regulator.


First String Wired up.


Second string wired up.


Third string wired up.


Fourth string wired up.


Fifth String wired up.


Everything wired up.




The actual Board.


Can't see the LEDs in the board..

Reverse lights on, And PWM at about 50% load.
Daylight

Darkness



PWM Off. Bad pic, but its pretty bright. I'll feel sorry for anyone who has to look at me from the side.

Very cool! Why don't you fill in the middle of the "D" it will look a lot brighter? About what was the total cost of the project?

silentbob97 wrote:

About what was the total cost of the project?

x2!

oldskoolhonda wrote:

silentbob97 wrote: About what was the total cost of the project? x2!

my guess is somewhere around 80 bucks.

2 PWM is about 30
resistors, and LM317 shoudl have been about 5-10
less than 60 superflux 25
leds for reverse 5-10
board 15

silentbob97 wrote:

Very cool! Why don't you fill in the middle of the "D" it will look a lot brighter? About what was the total cost of the project?

One step ahead of you.



















Taped in. Not secured in.














I have a video also.

http://media.putfile.com/Tail-Light-1

I didn't know how to adjust the camera to work with the PWM, so thats why your going to see the flashing, and the camera tried to adjust for the light everytime too... Not a very good video. I'm gonna pick up a flasher, and then hook it up to that, and hopefully I can get a better vid.

PRICE.
Its pushing about 200-225 With EVERYTHING (That includes all the tools I had to get.. A lot more expensive then I expected, but Its totally worth it.

$35 for Superflux
$25 for PWMS
$20 for White LEDs
$15 for Boards
$5 for Resistors/Diodes
$6 for Bulb Bases.

= $106

I still need 4 Heat sinks, And two project boxes.

Your going to have to factor in Solder, Sealants/Glues, etc. When you want to do it. That **** adds up. Quick.
I'm pretty sure I'm missing a few things.

So whats everyone think?

I got some part right now, I really can't do an update, Cause I'm just sealing up the boards right now to protect them from moisture. I will be mounting everything in a day or so..

Ok Update. I got the PWM's secured to the board, and a most of it is wired up in the bulb bases. All but one is. Tonite after class I might glue the boards into the housings.

I used 3 bolts and spacers per housing.




Screws and Spacers sticking out of the board.


PWM Screwed on.


Trimmed off the excess threads.


Covered it in sealant.




Bulb Bases.


You can see my wires in there.


Wired up.


With the Sealer in the base.


I fixed the housing too.. Some chrome was lifting off from some tape I used, and I'm deleting the side bulb.

Before:


Covered the missing chrome, You can still see the side bulb socket.


Side Covered. I covered a few more spots, but you can't see that anymore.


So whatcha think?

I like it,

I bought the stuff to do it a long time ago, for my Electra, but I haven't done anything yet.

My tail lights will be much easier than yours because The only house the DRL and the braking, the reverse lights are mounted in the bumper. Everything is rectangular, and so all I need to do is trim the circuit board down with the bandsaw, not complex shapes or curves.

How long did it take you from the time you unbolted the lenses?

4 hours over two days would be safe to say. I tried to bake them, got so far and couldn't go anymore, and then switched to the dremel to finish it off. It worked much better.

Update!

As of right now, both tails ARE sealed. Ones drying and will be put on tomorrow morning/afternoon.

Housings.


Back of the Housings.


You can see some error on my part when I was taking the housings apart. It shows up close by. You can see the black marks. Kinda icky.


Same thing on this tail. I really think that it was going to do that no matter what. But it didn't turn out bad for a first time Retro-fit.

Whatcha think?

Looks nice man. Can't wait to see them on the Explorer. Wish I had the money/skill/know-how to do this.

Ther are going on an Explorer look like an s-dime

Actually, they are going on my S10.. I forgot to make a gallery for my s10. I sold the explorer months ago..

Tail lights are IN, and DONE.

They are not that bright in the bright sun, and it was about noon at this point with the pics. Something's goofy with the wiring though. I have to have the parking lights on in order to use the brake lights/turn signals.

If anyone says anything about my bed being dirty, Blow me. lol.

Stockers off.


On.
















I'll be taking night time pictures later.

you need to clean your truck

I would look into that parking light issue. Doesn't sound that safe.