Components

I need to get new components for my car. My stock speakers are finally giving out. Here's what I'm looking at:

• Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 component system (6.5)
  
• Infinity Kappa 692.9i or 693.9i (6x9)
  
• Alpine PDX 4.100 or 4.150 amp
  

I'm pretty sure I want the Kappa Perfects, but any input on whether I should get the 2-way or 3-way 6x9s? Also, do you think I should get the 4.100 or 4.150 amp?

My currently installed gear is listed in my sig. FYI, the MTX amp for my sub is 400w RMS.

Get the 2 way 6x9's. All the highs should be coming from your components anyways. 6x9's should be used for mid-bass and not highs. I actually disconnected the coax speakers on my 6x9's for better imaging.

Kappa's are power hogs unless you are pushing at LEAST 75 watts they don't sound good
coax on the 6X9's the 3 ways sound muddy

i know your looking at infinity but if you want better clarity in your music for about the same price take a look into CDT... i have 2 component sets in my car... they are amazing clarity, not the loudest in the world but very clear..

http://www.cdtaudio.com/

as for your question i would go 3-way...

bad venge wrote:

Kappa's are power hogs unless you are pushing at LEAST 75 watts they don't sound good coax on the 6X9's the 3 ways sound muddy

Well I'm looking at the PDX 4.100 or 4.150 amp. That's 100 or 150 watts to each channel. U think that's adequate?

zanson wrote:

i know your looking at infinity but if you want better clarity in your music for about the same price take a look into CDT... i have 2 component sets in my car... they are amazing clarity, not the loudest in the world but very clear.. http://www.cdtaudio.com/ as for your question i would go 3-way...

Cool I'll take a look. Which models do u have or suggest? Thanks.

If you're not set on those, the Phoenix Gold RSd comps are widely acclaimed as by far the best for the money.

Any opinions about the amps?

I'd get the 150 ...

there are so many comperable brands thats you can go with man. Those 6.5's are **** beastly. you can do 200 watts rms to each components set. I def recommend the PDX-4.150 for you, thats 150 watts rm to a channel. If you can find somethin thats does 200 a channel then woot.

As for your 3 way question, i dont know if you mean 3 way coaxial, im too lazy to go back and read, but if it is coaxials, do 2 way. And just do 6" or 6.5" instead of 6x9's if you want and get the adapter. Customizing that shouldnt be too bad to make a baffle ring. If you are talking 3 way components, thats a great idea. I noticed that those kapas has a high starting freq of 75 hz. 3 ways will give ua dedicated woofer for the lower frequencies, a mid woofer and then a tweeter for the highs for excellent imaging.

The perfects have a 90 db sensitivity and the sensitivty level will allow u to use less power to achieve the same volume. herelook at these. They agve 93 db sens and a lower woofer freq, aka better bass.

REF6020CS

This set is even better, 95 DB sensitivity and 45 hz as the low end on the woofer.

KAPPA60.9CS

i dont know how much u r looking to dump but rainbow audio is very good, diamond and many others.[/url]

I'm guessing 8 guage amp wiring kit for the 4.150 right? Ya the 6x9s are coaxs. Do you think I will have dimming problems with the 2nd amp?

SuBXeRo wrote:

As for your 3 way question, i dont know if you mean 3 way coaxial, im too lazy to go back and read, but if it is coaxials, do 2 way. And just do 6" or 6.5" instead of 6x9's if you want and get the adapter. Customizing that shouldnt be too bad to make a baffle ring. If you are talking 3 way components, thats a great idea. I noticed that those kapas has a high starting freq of 75 hz. 3 ways will give ua dedicated woofer for the lower frequencies, a mid woofer and then a tweeter for the highs for excellent imaging.

High frequencies coming from the rear of your vehicle will only destroy your imaging and sound quality, not make it better. If you're talking about these 6.5" in the front then that's different. But I interpereted it as putting them in place of the 6x9's.

I'll say it again, playing the high frequencies from the rear of the car will destroy imaging and quality. Unless you specifically tune each individual speaker with the correct level and time delay. But I seriously doubt anyone on here besides for me has the ability to do that.

nonono i mean him having the 3 ways in the front, the highs bouncing off the rear glass hurt the sound image. Sorry for the lack of clarity.

Yeah 8 gauge should be ok, you will only be running about 1000 watts total, and this for sure wont be a constant 1000 watts. You may or may not have dimming. If you do, even if you don't, the big 3 is a good thing to upgrade anyways (battery, grounds, alternator). But you donthave to do the alt, only if you start to experience alot of trouble. The grounds and battery are a lot more important.

I interpreted as 6.5 instead of 6x9 in the back too lol. Now I just wish I could install this myself instead of going to a car audio store...

you can man, you can. It really isnt hard, infact i encourage you to do it yourself. Its a good way to get to know your car. If you need help, or have any other questions hit me up on aim. I would be more then happy to help you familirize yourself with everything.

Bah i didnt even realize the car, xterra stock sound systems are terrible. We had a loaner xterra it made me cry.

Are the rear speakers in your rear doors?

SuBXeRo wrote:

you can man, you can. It really isnt hard, infact i encourage you to do it yourself. Its a good way to get to know your car. If you need help, or have any other questions hit me up on aim. I would be more then happy to help you familirize yourself with everything. Bah i didnt even realize the car, xterra stock sound systems are terrible. We had a loaner xterra it made me cry. Are the rear speakers in your rear doors?

Rear speakers in the trunk area and front speakers in the front doors. But those aren't my issue, my issue are the tweeters in the A-pillars.

kicker ss's thats what i have and id recommend

PwrRngr wrote:

SuBXeRo wrote: As for your 3 way question, i dont know if you mean 3 way coaxial, im too lazy to go back and read, but if it is coaxials, do 2 way. And just do 6" or 6.5" instead of 6x9's if you want and get the adapter. Customizing that shouldnt be too bad to make a baffle ring. If you are talking 3 way components, thats a great idea. I noticed that those kapas has a high starting freq of 75 hz. 3 ways will give ua dedicated woofer for the lower frequencies, a mid woofer and then a tweeter for the highs for excellent imaging. High frequencies coming from the rear of your vehicle will only destroy your imaging and sound quality, not make it better. If you're talking about these 6.5" in the front then that's different. But I interpereted it as putting them in place of the 6x9's. I'll say it again, playing the high frequencies from the rear of the car will destroy imaging and quality. Unless you specifically tune each individual speaker with the correct level and time delay. But I seriously doubt anyone on here besides for me has the ability to do that.

Winner. Teach me?

the tweeters in combo with a midwoofer produce better sound imaging then just a coaxial. You are supposed to keep the tweeter as close as possible to the woofer so there isnt a seperation in listening points. There is much more clarity and less distortion when you use comps. If you want to use coaxials, go ahead, iys common in rear decks, but a comp set does the same thing as coaxials, just a **** better due to their seperation of workloads. Why do you think bookshelf speakers and pretty much any good speaker has atleast a woofer and tweeter. This isnt exactly car stuff, but its the same principle of why comps are used in the front.

In the end, you have to decide what preference is yours. Do u just want bass from the back? so on a so forth

I'm gonna run components in the back and front, because my back speakers are actually closer to my head and I can aim the opposite side's tweeter at each headrest.

lbjshaq2345 wrote:

I'm gonna run components in the back and front, because my back speakers are actually closer to my head and I can aim the opposite side's tweeter at each headrest.

Sometimes tweeters are better aimed at something besides the person's head. A lot of times bouncing the sound off a door, window, etc. ends up making it sound better. That's one of those things that you must experiment w/ in each car. Sit in the drivers seat and listen to music. Then re-aim the tweeters in another direction, sit in the seat and listen again. Keep doing this over and over and over again. Eventually decide on how you want them aimed and go back and aim them that direction.

One day......i will know audio like you do sir. Until then i will stick to stock.

Will do. Haven't completely made up my mind on that one yet, but it seems like if I can pull it off it will save me having to add another set of components up front to equal out the new beastly sub

Just got back from Circuit City just browsing and one of the guys working there told me if I want to amp my components in the front, 6x9s in the back, and sub in the back I'm gonna need a deck with 3 preouts. Is he right or is he just bsing me? I only have 2 on my kenwood...

Don't NEED 3... It would be better to have 3. Would still allow a 4.1 sound system.

TeDy wrote:

Don't NEED 3... It would be better to have 3. Would still allow a 4.1 sound system.

Ok cool, so the RCA comes out of the last preout connects to the amp, which can still send the signal to the front components and back 6x9s? What's the benefit of having 3? Just the ability to split front and back better? Thanks.

Usually with 3, you would get front, back, and subwoofer. Yes it does allow you to split you sound, but with the 3rd one, you can control your subs without turning down your music

Cool thanks for the help.

TeDy wrote:

Usually with 3, you would get front, back, and subwoofer. Yes it does allow you to split you sound, but with the 3rd one, you can control your subs without turning down your music

Even with two you can get front and back but you'll lose control of left and right. Basically, one set will be used for the sub amp and another set for the full range amp. On the full range amp you can either have control of fade or balance but not both.

PwrRngr wrote:

TeDy wrote: Usually with 3, you would get front, back, and subwoofer. Yes it does allow you to split you sound, but with the 3rd one, you can control your subs without turning down your music Even with two you can get front and back but you'll lose control of left and right. Basically, one set will be used for the sub amp and another set for the full range amp. On the full range amp you can either have control of fade or balance but not both.

If I get a deck w/ 3 preouts, how much of a diff will I notice vs my 2 preout kenwood? Enough that I need to get it now or I can just upgrade later?

Mad_Eyes wrote:

PwrRngr wrote: TeDy wrote: Usually with 3, you would get front, back, and subwoofer. Yes it does allow you to split you sound, but with the 3rd one, you can control your subs without turning down your music Even with two you can get front and back but you'll lose control of left and right. Basically, one set will be used for the sub amp and another set for the full range amp. On the full range amp you can either have control of fade or balance but not both. If I get a deck w/ 3 preouts, how much of a diff will I notice vs my 2 preout kenwood? Enough that I need to get it now or I can just upgrade later?

If you get 3 sets then you can make one set for your woofer amp. Then 2 more sets can go to a 4 channel full range amp. This will give you control over left, right, front, and back (you'll get fade and balance). Depending on how much control you want and how critical you are of you system, either will do.

Sounds like it can wait unless I find a good deal for a nice deck

Do I need a dual amp wiring kit or will getting a normal 8 guage work? Or do u suggest 4 guage for the Alpine PDX 4.150? Thanks.