Relay ?

Can I use a Relay with these..
http://www.oznium.com/thin-waterproof-ribbon
and If so will it affect the light output any

^^Why would you need to use a relay?

It was suggested to me for a cleaner install.
Instead of running all my wire to my switch, run it to the relay then the relay to the switch.

You don't need a relay. You'll actually run less wires if you do not use a relay.

2 strips of led lights in the bed for light (see post below for type), one on each side just above the wheel humps.
Looking into the bed....on the left Ive run both the Pos/Neg to the back of the truck and then down. Then across the frame where there is some factory wiring and loom to the other side and then back up to the other light on the other side. The light on the left is solder up already. Thats as far as ive got.

The switch is gonna be approx 2 ft from the end of the light on the right and in the bed. Both lights have 2 wires each.

Whats the best way to finish the job without having a bunch of connections? Pictures would be nice if you can.
and im not really sure I want to run a 3rd wire from the strip back to the switch. Just dont think there will be room for it after trying to get it silicone back up.

Im not much of a electrician so diagrams or detailed instructions would be helpful
and I would have posted a diagram but cant figure out how.

Thanks

Where are you taking power from? An existing light/circuit or going straight off the battery. And what kind of vehicle.

Quote:

Where are you taking power from? An existing light/circuit or going straight off the battery. And what kind of vehicle.

Havent determined that yet. Was thinking either the battery or running a tap off one of the fuses inside the cab. Pickup-Ford

Did you want the lights to come on with your parking/interior lights, or work independently?

Reason I ask is that I have the majority of mine turning on when I turn on the lights, you just run the +/- lines to the battery with a relay on the positive line. Take the trigger wire and tap into any existing interior light and put your switch between the tap and the relay.

Here's a diagram as requested.

No...Not with parking or interior lights.
Just want them separated, On a switch that will be in the bed, that way they are only running when I need light under the cover for getting stuff out, whether the trucks lights are on or not.
That was my plan anyway

Just put the switch in the positive line then, no need for a relay.

Spawn, where do you host your pictures? I can actually see them here at work.

imghost http://www.imghost.us/

So im gonna have 3 wires each running off the pos and 3 off the neg of the switch,
with 2 of those wires up to the battery.

is there a simpler way?

ScooterHooter wrote:

So im gonna have 3 wires each running off the pos and 3 off the neg of the switch, with 2 of those wires up to the battery. is there a simpler way?

Try to use colors in your drawings. Red for a positive wire and black for a negative wire. Only your positive wires need to go to the switch. Do not hook the negative wires to the switch. I'm not sure if that's how you have it in your drawing or not, but it looks like it could be.

As long as the negatives are not going to the switch, everything is ok.

PwrRngr wrote:

Spawn, where do you host your pictures? I can actually see them here at work.

Yeah, Imghost is one of the few that make it through the Federal filters up here as well.

Just made it... enjoy!!

What program are you guys using to make your fancy drawings?
No I had every wire going to my switch.

Ok, so whats getting me looking at your picture, your splitting the postive wires between the switch and the lights.

I wasnt sure if I should just run the positive from each light right to the switch, or split them somewhere then run tone positive wire to the switch. Guess Im worried about having a connection that will corrode.

So 2 things.
1. If I run both positives to the switch, having enough room in the female connector for both wires (18 g)
2. If I split them and then tie them into another wire going to the switch. Whats the best connector to use to avoid water/corrosion

Thanks for the help guys.

ScooterHooter wrote:

What program are you guys using to make your fancy drawings?

MS Paint ;]

ScooterHooter wrote:

No I had every wire going to my switch.

don't get discouraged =]

ScooterHooter wrote:

Ok, so whats getting me looking at your picture, your splitting the postive wires between the switch and the lights.

Correct, although you could run 1 positive wire from each light back to the switch, but that's messier/takes longer/more cabling... just make sure your wire-gauge is big enough to support all the strips you use...

ScooterHooter wrote:

I wasnt sure if I should just run the positive from each light right to the switch, or split them somewhere then run tone positive wire to the switch. Guess Im worried about having a connection that will corrode.

try a 16-18 gauge wire and some Quick Splice wire taps ;]

ScooterHooter wrote:

So 2 things. 1. If I run both positives to the switch, having enough room in the female connector for both wires (18 g)

where's your question? ???

ScooterHooter wrote:

2. If I split them and then tie them into another wire going to the switch. Whats the best connector to use to avoid water/corrosion

Quick Splices for quickness! Soldering/Heatshrink tubing for durability and solid connection! =]

ScooterHooter wrote:

Thanks for the help guys.

NP, we're here to help =] and bash each other ^_^

Butt Connectors and heat shrink tubing are your friends.

spawn's right, i editted my post to reflect that

Picked up some connectors tonight.. how about the butt connectors with heat shrink tubing already around them, they any good?
Question thou, im using 18gauge wire
In one end of the butt connector im gonna be putting 2 ends of 18g wire into it. The other end only 1 wire.
So do I go with the 18-22 butt connectors(which doesnt really look like a lot of room for 2 wires) or the 16-14 butt connectors?

18-22... make it fit ... LOL

Agreed with RadRaze. Twist the 2 together and see if it will fit. If not, then take your 2 18 gauge and trim off say 1/3 of the wires, then splice and solder, they should fit fine (2/3 of 36 is 24 so it should be nice and snug). Either way, make sure to solder the spice, always helps in making sure that one of the wires doesn't come loose.

Spawn wrote:

Agreed with RadRaze. Twist the 2 together and see if it will fit. If not, then take your 2 18 gauge and trim off say 1/3 of the wires, then splice and solder, they should fit fine (2/3 of 36 is 24 so it should be nice and snug). Either way, make sure to solder the spice, always helps in making sure that one of the wires doesn't come loose.

You want me to twist the 2 wires together, and if they dont fit, cut some of the wire off, gotcha, but then you want me to solder them together, which just makes them bigger around and harder to get into the connector.

Added to Rad's picture to make sure im getting this right



On another note can I link the two grounds together and just have one ground instead of 2 seperate?


Thanks

^^^^^^^^^ that works!

and yes, you can have 1 ground, just make sure it's thicker than the power wires... you can never have too much ground ^_^

RADRaze2KX wrote:

^^^^^^^^^ that works! and yes, you can have 1 ground, just make sure it's thicker than the power wires... you can never have too much ground ^_^

Well, ive already got the wires solder and sealed up to one light so both pos and neg are the same size.

So for the ground can I run the same size wires from the lights to the connector and then run 1 size larger wire from there to the metal for the ground?

yes, although if your lights are going to be in different locations, it might just be easier to ground them individually (makes for a cleaner install)

Can I use the same size wire (18guage) from the battery to the switch or does it have to be bigger?

Can I use the same size wire (18guage) from the battery to the switch or does it have to be bigger?

Sorry another question..
Can I tap off the bulb for the license plate. I will want power to the lights at all times using the switch to turn on/off. So Im not sure if this will work since the bulb only comes on when the lights are turned on. The bulb has a black and a brown wire to it.

I turned the bulb/socket out from the rear of the truck so it loose but im not sure if the connector part comes apart enough so you can get a wire in there. ?

Would I still need to run a separate fuse?

Thought it might be easier than running wire all the way up to the battery.

yes you can use the same size wire from the battery to the switch...

i'd just run the wire all the way to the battery... you could tap the bulb for the relay signal on though...

RadRaze,
Ok - on the same size wire to the battery.

Do you know if the factory connector comes apart?
Dont want to screw up my wiring, but it would be alot easier taking power from there if I could instead of threading wire all the way up to the battery.

try using an add-a-circuit or tapping your cigarette lighter instead if you don't want to go past the firewall to reach your battery...

Part of my problem is where to actually run the wire.
Fords fully boxed frame is not allowing for a lot of choices.

The factory loom runs down on the drivers side, but the battery is on the passenger side. Not sure how to get it to the other side without burning the wire up on something that gets hot.

don't use cheap wires, and cover them with split-looming... should be good to go, how else would car audio guys get their stuff powered?