What Lights to use on storefront under counter accent? |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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I looked at the Flexible LED Strips and the Surface Mount LED Bar, do they both work fine under the counter? I would like to have the light shown against the glass tile on the front of the counter. See pic below for how the counter looks...woody counter WILL be all in baby blue glass tile.
I think I need like 20-25 feets of strips but can they be connected one to another? How easy is it to do this? Should I hire a electrician? Beside buying the strips, what other accessary to buy to connect them into 25 feets? Thank you for your help http://picasaweb.google.com/linhktri/Store?authkey=LV91lWEjyRQ#5253022553845793474 Last edited by linhemails on Fri Oct 03, 2008 1:33 pm, edited 5 times in total |
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alkatmsu
Joined: Nov 08 2005 Posts: 1074 Location: Kentucky 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier Last updated: 02/10/08 |
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If you can hook positive to positive and negative to negative, and solder, you should be fine to do it yourself. I've not got experience with LED strips, but I do know that most products from here are easier to install than people think at first.
I do know that you'll need a 12v power source as well as the strips. |
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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Wire crimps/cutters.. it is a pretty simple process.
The main thing you would need to make is a system of turning them on / plugging them in.. Use this for 16~ ft of the strips..? http://www.oznium.com/ac-adapter The strips come with just +/- wire that would need to be spliced & connected to each strip. (someone find the video for him to use the adapter...?? ) something to secure your lights... anything would work.. Maybe use the tap downs.. depends on how clean you want it to look. Also maybe drill small holes and hide the wires thru the holes... making the lights match up snug. Just a couple ideas... |
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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Oh something I did as using pretty much the million color approach. It allows a constant feel of change so that when say the store changes the colors can change and your not stuck with the same color....
Just an idea. That way when fall comes say you can use Orange and so forth... something like this: http://www.oznium.com/ac-adapter ^^ has a surface mountand a guard for the LEDs... Dunno what your storefront/counter is used for... The strips are nice and the surface mount are even nicer... If you have a couple photos I can help you out with ideas for mounting and so forth. |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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I called Oznium, he recommend using ribbon LED strips, which goes up to 16 feets. I need 21 feets total, he suggest buying "solder", ...lol...i clueless about this...but very interest in learning how to do it so I can customized my store with more lights.
http://picasaweb.google.com/linhktri/Store?authkey=LV91lWEjyRQ#5253022553845793474 I have posted up my store pictures for more suggestions... I was thinking of "blue" ribbon LED strips... I need the 12V AC Adapter with 3.25 Amp for the 21 feets strips. Also, do I need the Junction box? what is that for? What else beside buying a Solder, LED strips, Adapter... Last edited by linhemails on Fri Oct 03, 2008 1:41 pm, edited 2 times in total |
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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The ledge is what I was looking for on the counter top area..
In the pictures you provided I think that the foot area would look the best for lighting. Especially since there would be some exposure of the lights if placed in hand or in sight... Do you have the original picture you posted so it is a little "larger" ?? The ribbon strips are bright and are suitable. Solder'ing maybe be a complicated process for yourself if you have not done it. It is NOT hard but kinda of a hobby to learn. It takes a little patience and a willingness to learn by getting burned a time or two... For mounting ease... I would use what is called a cable tie holder:
Usually sold with an adhesive backing. Or... just using a double sided adhesive like a 3M type sold with most Oznium LEDs. I would suggest cleaning all surfaces with a water/alcohol 50/50 mixture and cleaning it up REALLY good so the adhesive would adhere. My suggestion would be for such a LARGE order of 21ft, maybe making a small order of 1 ft of the strip and 1 ft of the ribbon to see which you like best and which would fit underneath your counter the best. Also if you are wanting to see colors in person I suggest doing this as well. But I do see PLENTY of areas where you could place LED lighting. For example above or below your black signs... Let me know if you have any other questions and feel free to ask them now before you make a large order! Rather you buy something that you are able to use out of the packaging than something that would require a lot of work for you. |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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Good idea on buying a feet of each LED I think I want before buying 21 fts.
I'm planning buying the - Flexible LED Strips = Flexible in all directions - Thin LED Strips = Super thin, flexible, Plug and Play - Ribbon LED Strips = Super thin, flexible, expandable, cuttable, Soldering |
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ChevyCaprice9C1
Joined: Jan 18 2008 Posts: 1282 Location: trenton ohio 1991 Chevrolet Caprice Last updated: 09/19/08 |
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well i think thesull basically covered every thing
but i did find a video from oznium that shoes some basics of soldering and hopw to use the home adapter |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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Thank you for the Youtube, great info.
Here are some of "BIG" pictures of my counter http://picasaweb.google.com/linhktri/Store?authkey=LV91lWEjyRQ# |
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Chris
Joined: Sep 27 2004 Posts: 1492 Location: NY 1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse Last updated: 11/06/06 1984 Mazda RX-7 Last updated: 07/24/07 |
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Heres my opinion;
I would order one foot of the Flex LED Strip for now and here is why; I have the older style thin strips, the million color ones. You have to go around a bend on your counter top. The thin strips are great if you want them to flex vertically with the LEDs. The LED's point DOWN, not allowing you to make the bend that you need to make and have the LED's still face downward. I have a feeling that the ribbon strips may be the same deal. Vertically, not horizontally. The flex LED's allow you to move in whatever direction you may need, in this case, horizontal. Here are some pictures with my fear of the Thin and Ribbon (using a round roll of packing material) Picture 1; Think of the top of this roll as the bottom of your counter. This shows that if you wanted the LEDs pointed OUT towards people, this will be fine.
Picture 2; This shows if you wanted the LEDs pointing at the ground. I made it flat so you can see the curve of the packing material.
Picture 3; This is when I tried to bend the Thin LED strip so the LEDs would be pointed at the ground. In the middle, there is a rise in the strip and I couldn't get it to form correctly around the curve.
Hope that helps! Chris |
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Aken
Joined: Feb 12 2003 Posts: 8444 |
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The non-waterproof ribbon strips are much thinner, and don't have a silicone casing making them as rigid as the Thin LED Strips that Chris posted. You'd have an easier time making them go around a curve. Oznium's warehouse has them ribbon strips on the ceiling in a big circle lighting up one of the back rooms.
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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Aken,
That was EXACTLY what I was thinking... Chris, Thanks for posting up pictures to show this in actual use and the explanation of how they don't bend well with the Thin LEDs. The ribbon may work better and can be bent a little more... the curve will need a little work to make perfect. The area in which you are working is usable but will need a steady hand. Flex: http://www.oznium.com/led-flex-strips Ribbon: http://www.oznium.com/led-ribbon This is what Chris posted: http://www.oznium.com/thin-led-strip (Got confused there for a minute... My name is Chris as well ;/ ) |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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From my links, the 2nd picture to the last showing a small areas of opening BEHIND the countertop flat edge. That is where I will place the LED lights, so the light has to be wide 1 cm and the bulbs needs to point down to the ground so that it highlight the Glass Tile that I will be installing.
I will post the new pics with glass tile today. Thank you all for your great suggestions and help. I will need to find out how much opening I really have left after the tile has installed. Hope it's enought for the LED lights. |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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Okay, the glass tiles are done. Please take a look at them.
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DJTricky
Joined: Nov 13 2007 Posts: 450 Location: Robbinsdale, MN 1996 Chevrolet Tahoe Last updated: 05/07/08 |
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Chris
Joined: Sep 27 2004 Posts: 1492 Location: NY 1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse Last updated: 11/06/06 1984 Mazda RX-7 Last updated: 07/24/07 |
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The ones DJTricky posted will work if they wont be bumped into. The LEDs bend individually and there is no protective casing, I believe. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
The good thing about those; No soldering. Plug and play additions. Thin, will fit into your space. |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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No one will 'hopefully" see them, I will try to hide them behind the countertop edge...unless they sit down from ground level and look up. That small slot you see on picture # 5 of 7.
It's a very small area. I need something that flexible, bendable, and easy to extend out to 21 feets. |
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DJTricky
Joined: Nov 13 2007 Posts: 450 Location: Robbinsdale, MN 1996 Chevrolet Tahoe Last updated: 05/07/08 |
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the ones i posted
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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So with the Flathead LED strips, it come in 12 inch increments. I need about 21 feets, here's what I came up to complete my project.
= 21 orders of FLATHEAD LED STRIPS = comes out to 21 feets = 1 order of 3.25 AMP = guess or should I go for 5 Amp? = 1 order of FLATHEAD LED STRIP POWER CONNECTOR = 23 orders of FLATHEAD LED STRIP MOUNTING BRACKET = 11 orders of FLATHEAD LED STRIP INTERCONNECT Please correct me if I'm off on any of this... |
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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The flex LEDs may be the best bet for your application. Order maybe a foot of each and see what one works best for you and which one gives off the color output your looking for...
Looking good! The flex strips in my opinion would be best or your application. Concealed so when you clean your tile they will be protected and the LEDs are not exposed. You will need a small converter. Keep posting questions and such and looking for ideas! Like I said the million color with a controller would allow you to change the colors as the seasons change and to keep your shop with a new FLARE always... |
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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Here is a picture of the WIDTH of the LEDs I mentioned:
The LEDs I am mentioning are the SAME ones you originally were looking at... they have a protective coating on them so that if you want to wipe them off you won't have to worry if you bend them and such. http://www.oznium.com/led-flex-strips ^^ 21 ft 3 x 6ft sections = 18 1 x 38" About $250 after shipping with the FLEX In my opinion order 1 ft of each and see which will suit your needs BEST. Don't make a HUGE order and getting something your not going to be happy with... |
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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You would need the 3 amp version here is why:
21 feet x .130 amps = 2.73 amps Your 21 ft of LEDs will pull that amount if not MORE... |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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So, how do I connect the Flex Led together? I hope there's no soldering involve. Also, the million color allow me to change to what ever color I want as long as I have the converter to it? Or, does it automatically change different color randomly?
I would like to keep it "blue" for a month and next month "green" etc. How does this hang onto or attach to my counter? As you can see from my picture #5, not much space to hammer a nail in there. |
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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You could use a silicone and tape until the silicone has dried...
Or use the 3M adhesive backing supplied with the lights. To use Million color you would need to purchase a CONTROLLER. The CONTROLLER controls the colors, the CONVERTER simply converts the AC / DC Current... There are currently TWO types of controllers: Basic: http://www.oznium.com/rgb-ribbon-control Advanced: http://www.oznium.com/rgb-led-remote-controller You should not have to solder if you use WIRE CRIMPS that include solder than activiates when you place HEAT ( A lighter to the crimp ) Look for an adhesive crimp say at wal-mart, home depot or lowes. Also buy a wire strip/crimp tool usually about $5 |
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Chris
Joined: Sep 27 2004 Posts: 1492 Location: NY 1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse Last updated: 11/06/06 1984 Mazda RX-7 Last updated: 07/24/07 |
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Yes, Soldering will be required for the flex strips.
The million colors, depending on which controller you get, can be "paused" on a certain color. Other controllers let you manually set the colors. There are other ways to get solid colors if you want, but that requires knowledge in wiring, so the easiest is to buy a controller. The controller needs to be soldered on I believe, someone please correct me if I am wrong. I know with my strips that I posted above, they are a plug in controller. Try taping it or making some brackets? |
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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Soldering is NOT required if you use ADHESIVE crimps with the solder inside of them. It would be the EASIEST way and quickest and cleanest way for her to get the LEDs installed.
Crimps with heat adhesive/solder would be efficient without having to physically solder the connections. Links posted above for controller options. |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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I'm going to order 1 of the Flathead LED strips & 1 Flexible LED strips & 3.25 Amp Adapter, to test it out but should I get the Junction box to avoid any soldering if needed?
"Junction Box" http://www.oznium.com/junction-box |
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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WITHOUT having the adapter plugged in and just for TESTING...
Twist the wires together and cover it with electrical tape. THIS IS TEMPORARY for the test. If you feel you could use the junction box in your application I say go for it. BUT it will leave terminals exposed.. The safest and best bet is just to get crimps that you use a lighter to heat up and seal... |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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Since this is a business, I can not have any wires exposed. The health & safety inspection here is very harsh.
I ordered the Junction box to do the testing and then return it with the LED strip that I don't want. That way, I do not damage the wires by crimping it. I might do that method, for my setup of the 21 feets. Thank you all for your help and great suggestions. I will keep you all update on my countertop looks. |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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How do you connect the wires into the Junction Box? The wires doesn't seem to stay in the small slot. Do I need to unscrew the green box and insert the wires and place back the green box?
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thesull
Joined: Jun 06 2008 Posts: 809 |
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Use a small falt head screw driver...
the junction box uses tiny clamps to hold the wires in place. They move up and down... Place the screw driver on a clamp and paly with it backing it up and down to see how it works. Once you see which way goes up and which way goes down place your wire in the middle of the two and then tighten the wire down to the clamp using the screw driver. Hope this helps! |
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linhemails
Joined: Oct 03 2008 Posts: 13 |
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Thank you for all your help! |