Why is the transformer blowing? (Pics included)

I'm definitely lost now as to why this is happening.

What I want:
I want the CCFLs to function like the stock headlights. I want them to turn on when I start the bike. I installed the switch so I could have the CCFLs on all time (kind of like daytime running lights) and then at night I could switch the headlights on when they are needed.

What I've done:
When I first installed the CCFLs I was an idiot and extended the white wires coming from the rings to the transformers. Soooo I ordered a new pair of transformers and got them to actually fit up right by the headlight housing so that I could use the stock length on the white wires.


I put the transformers right under the gauge cluster and the headlight housing covers them up. The red/black wires that are dangling in the picture are routed over to the right and up to the transformers. They then are pulling power from the stock +/- wires that originally powered my H7 headlight bulbs. I created a wiring harness to get this done as you can see below. The only "stock" part in this picture is the "OEM High/Low Beam" squares which are the plugs that would originally plug into the H7 headlight bulbs.


Here is what it looks like with the hid retrofit that I did. The bike used to have reflector style headlight buckets.


1.) The white wires are not extended now. I installed everything as it sits right now and then I used a very small 12v battery to test them and the light did illuminate. So I knew they were working right before I plugged them into the factory power source.
2.) When I made the final connection to the stock wiring harness connector and started the bike the CCFLs didn't turn on. "Crap" I thought. I cut the +/-'s and tested them with the small battery again....yep, it was a no go this time.

Possible Thoughts:
- The stock H7 bulbs are 12v and rated at 55 watts. Is this too high of a wattage or something for the transformers to handle?
- I was under the impression that I could tap into a +/- source from any 12v source for the transformers. The stock connector made the most sense because it would automatically turn the CCFLs on and off for me.

For the "OEM High Beam" and "OEM Low Beam" squares, I know it looks like the switch would have to be on for the CCFLs to work. It's bascially a T-connection where the + source from the stock harness is split to two +'s (one for the HID switch and the other for the CCFLs).

Look at the two prong male plug in this picture. That's an H7 adapter that plugs into the stock harness (the two slot female connector below it) so I didn't have to cut any factory wires. You can see how it's split the +/- sources into two different wires.


Oh, and everything is soldered. I never use butt-connectors....not that it really matters for this problem haha

I don't know how HIDs are wired but I believe they run off more than 12V after the ballast. Are you sure that you're tapped into 12V and not the extra voltage after it gets jumped?

PwrRngr wrote:

I don't know how HIDs are wired but I believe they run off more than 12V after the ballast. Are you sure that you're tapped into 12V and not the extra voltage after it gets jumped?

When the HIDs first fire up, they are putting out about 23,000 volts. But this voltage is going from the ignitor to the bulb only. The ballast is powered by the 12v source and then it send a "signal" to the ignitor to fire up and get the bulbs moving along.

But the 12v source wires are not seeing 23k volts. If they did then my bike would most likely be a pile of ash haha.