V2 ECU keeps blowing

Alright... I bought my V2 a few months ago and it worked fine with little to no problems for about a month or so and then my ECU blew.

Blown ECU - By blown I mean that the system doesn't do what the pattern is on the display, it just kinda does whatever it wants. When you "Power off" the unit via the remote (Display shows "P") 2-3 channels will just cycle through colors like they would in standby mode. There is no way to cut light to all 4 channels with the power plugged into the ECU.

So I replaced the ECU with another NEW ECU that I had laying around, the kit ran for about 3 weeks, no problems. I then added interior lighting by putting 4 6inch tubes in the footwells, hooked straight to the V2 ECU. Went to the Ohio meet, everything worked well. About 2 weeks after that, that ECU went out.

I finally just a few days ago replaced the ECU again, this time with another NEW ECU (was sent to me by mistake from Oz when I ordered a Wheel Well ECU) and everything worked fine, with the exception of a single blue spot (3 LED's) when the kit was powered off in my rear tube. Not a real issue though, so I let it be... everything was flawless as usual, lasted about 3-5 days and the ECU is out again...

I can't imagine that it would be the load of the extra 4 tubes, as it is very minimal, as well as the ECU itself is fused, and that has yet to blow.


TLDR: I keep blowing ECU's, Why?

Yeah, his **** is **** up.

Voltage spikes in your car?

Doubt it, my voltages never seem to change much... I have a voltmeter in my radar detector, it reads pretty constant 14.2 when running with little to no load.

I don't even know how I would check for something like that....

If the power wire to the ecu it fused then wouldn't the fuse blow before the spiked voltage got to the ecu?

Where do you have the ECU mounted? Does it get hot or something? I haven't not had/seen/heard of any problems like this.

Fuse would blow before it reached the ecu if it was voltage yes.

Where is it mounted for sure. The extra tubes shouldn't be effecting it. Check all lines for shorts. Maby it is a small enough short to not get caught by the fuse but with enough time it is taking a toll on your ecu. Something is def wrong.

Fuses don't blow from voltage spikes, in fact, most of the glass-type fuses are rated to 125 or 250 volts.

Fuses blow from over-amperage...

The ECU is in a little "CD Holder" next to the steering wheel that has an open back into the dash. I can't imagine that it's in extreme heat, or anything out of the ordinary.

I am going to say small short then. Small enough for teh fuse to not catch it. Yet still there to **** the ecu up. I can't think of anything else it could be. Try hooking one tube in at a time. Start with one tube, Run it for a week. Then do another for a week and so forth. With that you will be able to see what tube is doing this.

kornholio788 wrote:

Try hooking one tube in at a time. Start with one tube, Run it for a week. Then do another for a week and so forth. With that you will be able to see what tube is doing this.

That'd be great... but unfortunately, when this happens, the ECU is dead.... non-repairable...

So each wrong guess cost's me $60

Then talk to customer service at OZ. Maybe you need to send them the kit and let them hook it up and test everything. I'm sure based on what you are telling us they would at lest do that. If they get the kit and everything work fine, then it would tell you that the problem is in your wiring.

I find it hard to believe its a problem on their end, but you never know.