help with my amp and subs

ok there was an earler post on here about someones power light on there kenwood amp that turned off and wouldent come back on...

well i kinda have the same problem, except after like 2 or 3 or 4 min the light goes out then after like another min comes back on then keeps repeating itself. SO im totally clueless as to what the problem could be

its a kenwood KAC-8104D brand new with 2 12" kenwood subs both new as well with all new wireing and box.

Please help!!!

what gauge wiring do you have to it?

Good clean ground?

sounds alot like its overheating, keep it out of the sun and give it adequate air space

do you have the subs wired the right way? Try running a wire to one of the subs for testing.

you need to give alittle more info .. it sounds like the amp isnt liking the load you are giving it. (insert perverted joke here)

its an 8 guage wire

theres no sun on it its screwed onto the back of the box

its a 1200w amp and 2 1000 watt 12" subs they all came packaged

if its giving a specific flashing bulb, wasn't a manual given, or the number to the makers customer support?

are you sure its 1200W, i searched you model amp and found this, if so i dont think your using a proper amp, also that product had a history with some about its signal sensing imputs via the reviews i read
http://www.crutchfield.com/app/product/search/s...nwood+KAC-8104D&x=30&y=8

sorry sorry its a 1000w amp

what model are your subs

xfenzo205x wrote:

sorry sorry its a 1000w amp

Well, if you had two amps like that running at 2 ohm load , yes that would be 1000 watts... but I would take a guess you have a 4 ohm load, so this amp is rated 300 watts.

300 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (500 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)

^^ and your your running 2 subs in parallel with this mono amp

i dont think your 12s would be within the respective RMS for the mono sub, nor the respective ohms. You are using the correct gauge wiring. I just think your going to need to drop a sub or get a better amp

JSewell wrote:

what model are your subs

need to know this to give you a solid answer

byte wrote:

xfenzo205x wrote: sorry sorry its a 1000w amp Well, if you had two amps like that running at 2 ohm load , yes that would be 1000 watts... but I would take a guess you have a 4 ohm load, so this amp is rated 300 watts. 300 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (500 watts x 1 at 2 ohms)

RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 300 x 1
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) 1000 x 1
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 500 x 1


it is a 1000 watt max amp

ok this is exactally what i have ... sorry guys and gals


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&a...mp;ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

being that they are 1000watt subs, the RMS is probably 500? give or take alittle bit. You probably have them wired at 2 channels. You might want to try to bridge the amp and run them in parallel and see if that helps

with an 8 guage wire

ok disregard my last post .. i just noticed it was a mono amp .. how do you have them wired?

now it says for the amp power wire guage - 4 guage

well i believe mine is an 8 so could that be the problem?

Rated Input Power: 400 Watts (each sub)

You have 800watts total at 2ohm if wired correctly.
Your amp is only puching 500wattRMS at 2ohm if wired correctly.
Your 300watt shy, but the amp should still be able to turn on and push them.

Check you remote wire and make sure it is good?

xfenzo205x wrote:

now it says for the amp power wire guage - 4 guage well i believe mine is an 8 so could that be the problem?

you should upgrade to 4 guage for sure with an 800watt load.

cool thanks ill def do that a friend of mine game a kit he never opened and its 8 guage so hopefully that will solve this embarrassing problem

i just didnt think the guage would make a difference either

will this work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/SCOSCHE-E1000-E2-4-GAUGE-10...6.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50

800watt load.....umm...what?

here is a wiring diagram for 2 ohm load with mono amp
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcen...oofer_wiring/2SVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

Kenwood recommend a 8 gauge power wire... and amp uses a 40 amp fuse... IMO the 8 gauge wire should be lots.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_613KAC8104/Kenwood...ed.html?search=kenwood+KAC-8104D

• 1000 Watts of Power with 30% Smaller Chassis Size
• CEA Rated: 300W (1.0% THD+N) (4Ohm/1Ch)
• CEA Rated: 500W (1.0% THD+N) (2Ohm/1Ch)
I wonder why they don't attach at THD on that 1000 watt rating.

byte wrote:

� 1000 Watts of Power with 30% Smaller Chassis Size � CEA Rated: 300W (1.0% THD+N) (4Ohm/1Ch) � CEA Rated: 500W (1.0% THD+N) (2Ohm/1Ch) I wonder why they don't attach at THD on that 1000 watt rating.

You are worried about your class d amp's THD? I can relatively assume you would not be able to tell the difference between 20-200hz.

Anywho, unless you want to be soured by a number like 30%THD, you would not want to see the value listed along with peak power measurements. The amp they sold you along with those subs is under powering them, so there really shouldn't be any issues running the system together, along with the 8ga you are running.

As suggested MUCH earlier, this sounds like a faulty ground or remote wire situation since power is slipping. Make sure there is a solid metal to metal contact for the amp grnd, and it should a really short distance, preferable under 1ft (I keep mine under 6in). Either then that, it could also be a faulty remote wire/lead/etc. Also, make sure you are hooking the remote wire up correctly, its what allows the 12V floodgate to open.

did you ever figure out what was the problem?