Which sub setup would sound best? |
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alkatmsu
Joined: Nov 08 2005 Posts: 1480 Location: Kentucky 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier Last updated: 02/10/08 2007 Ford Fusion Last updated: 08/31/09 |
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I've been running numbers all day, trying to figure out what sort of system I want to put in my Fusion. I'm wanting to go with Elemental Designs stuff, so that's what this is all based off of, but I'm open to other brands for sure. Right now I'm mostly trying to figure out what size/number of subs would give the best sound.
I mostly listen to classic rock/metal, and modern rock. I don't want to blow my windows out, but I wouldn't mind impressing people from time to time For now, all my box prices are for sealed boxes. Not sure if any particular setups would be better ported. My possible setups are as follows (the components are the same for every setup, and would only vary from 65w-100w, so I'm not gonna list them on every one), end price includes a sealed box: 1. Package deal of one 10" sub. Sub would get 150w. $375 2. Two 10" subs, 400w from the amp (200 per sub I presume, dunno if it just divides by 2 or what) $738 3. One 12" sub, 150w. $517 4. Two 12" subs, 900w. $962 (ouch!) 5. One 15" sub, 400w. $791 In order of price: $375 for 1 10" @ 150w $517 for 1 12" @ 150w $738 for 2 10" @ 400w $791 for 1 15" @ 400w $962 for 2 12" @ 900w All I know is the numbers. I don't know what sizes make what sound, how much difference an extra 250-500 watts would make, etc. Which setup would be best for the money? Or something totally different? Cheaper is better, but quality counts too. Thanks! |
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corvettecrazy
Joined: Dec 17 2003 Posts: 3773 Location: moved (twice) 1996 Pontiac Bonneville Last updated: 06/11/07 2000 Chevrolet Corvette Last updated: 08/31/04 |
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You should factor in how much truck space you can handle to waste...
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coolbam
Joined: Nov 05 2008 Posts: 1814 Location: Cbus - Bexley 1987 Ford Mustang Last updated: 06/03/09 2003 Ford Mustang Last updated: 08/21/09 |
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500 - 600 watts is for people that want some bass. 1000+ is for those who potentially want to blow people away.
$500 for only 150W is a complete ripoff if it isn't competition and even then its questionable. |
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corvettecrazy
Joined: Dec 17 2003 Posts: 3773 Location: moved (twice) 1996 Pontiac Bonneville Last updated: 06/11/07 2000 Chevrolet Corvette Last updated: 08/31/04 |
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I can't believe someone would actually say what you just said. It was by far the most stupid thing I have read or heard all week. By your theory: System A, with a cheap knock off 1000 watt sub with an equally cheap amp would be "better" than System B with a quality sub and quality amp that may only have an rms of 300 watts. |
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coolbam
Joined: Nov 05 2008 Posts: 1814 Location: Cbus - Bexley 1987 Ford Mustang Last updated: 06/03/09 2003 Ford Mustang Last updated: 08/21/09 |
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I was talking pretty general.
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alkatmsu
Joined: Nov 08 2005 Posts: 1480 Location: Kentucky 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier Last updated: 02/10/08 2007 Ford Fusion Last updated: 08/31/09 |
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The dual 12" box would still leave about 1/3 of my trunk free.
My prices also include component speakers for the front doors, and amp space to power them (as in, if the sub has a dedicated amp, the price includes a 2nd amp for the components). I'm thinking a single 12 might be the best for the sound. The single 10 is a good deal cheaper though. Between those two, which would be best? |
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coolbam
Joined: Nov 05 2008 Posts: 1814 Location: Cbus - Bexley 1987 Ford Mustang Last updated: 06/03/09 2003 Ford Mustang Last updated: 08/21/09 |
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Theres some info I needed lol.
I thought it was 1 amp and I was like omg how the hell is it that expensive. Anyways a 10 or 12 hmm. Jdustys 10 sounded good and I had 12's but they were in 2 different types of vehicles so I will not give a "for sure" opinion on this one. |
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A-Ray
Joined: May 01 2005 Posts: 2918 Location: Volunteer State 2003 Pontiac Sunfire Last updated: 03/30/09 1965 Ford Galaxie Last updated: 05/01/05 |
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I listen to a lot of rock/metal and my setup consists of one 12" getting 300 watts in a ported box. It is more than enough to feel the pound in my car.
What models are you looking at from ED? Thats what will help us "choose" your system. Gotta make sure that the amp will properly power the subs. |
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alkatmsu
Joined: Nov 08 2005 Posts: 1480 Location: Kentucky 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier Last updated: 02/10/08 2007 Ford Fusion Last updated: 08/31/09 |
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To answer the model questions:
$375 for 1 10" @ 150w consists of: http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?products_id=881 plus a box. $517 for 1 12" @ 150w consists of: http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_23_127&products_id=49 http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_22&products_id=46 http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_21&products_id=782 plus the box. I could probably get the prices a little lower, as the 'build a package' page doesn't take into account adding a box, and it says to call for pricing deals on that. |
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Brandon
Joined: Jun 04 2003 Posts: 4120 Location: St. Louis, MO 1994 Mazda MX-3 Last updated: 09/06/06 2005 Geo Metro Last updated: 06/16/04 2006 Subaru Legacy Last updated: 06/18/06 |
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2 12's will blow away almost any single 15 setup. As long as the setup isn't an inconvenience, that's the one I'd go for.
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alkatmsu
Joined: Nov 08 2005 Posts: 1480 Location: Kentucky 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier Last updated: 02/10/08 2007 Ford Fusion Last updated: 08/31/09 |
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2 12's is also nearly a grand going all ed stuff. I could get it a little cheaper by re-using my old amp for the fronts, but it's still a lot of money. Is there enough difference between single or dual 12's that it'd be worth a $415 difference? The box size is also doubled by going duals, which I can fit, but again, is it worth the difference of losing 2/3 of my trunk instead of ~1/4?
I'm really leaning toward a single sub at this point. There's ~$125 difference between a single 10" and a single 12", would that be worth it, given the models listed above? Edit: Just ran some more numbers. If I go with the 12" listed a couple posts up, and use the nine.2 for the amp instead of the nine.4: http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_22&products_id=45 I could put 400w to the sub, and re-use my old amp, bridged, to power the fronts @ 100w. Result: $508 gives 400w to 12" sub, 100w to components (using old amp bridged) This is a few dollars cheaper than the prior single 12" setup I had figured ($517), and gives 250w more to the sub, and 35w more to the components. Unless someone says otherwise, I'm figuring there's no way the extra 500w for a dual 12 setup is worth the extra ~$350 it'd cost (my dual config includes 2 amps, that would make it $550 extra, but if I dropped the one amp and reused old, it'd save about $200). |
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Highland J
Joined: Sep 08 2006 Posts: 657 Location: ND, Land of the covered wagons and wheat. 2003 Toyota Highlander Last updated: 09/14/08 |
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[quote="coolbam"]500 - 600 watts is for people that want some bass. 1000+ is for those who potentially want to blow people away. [quote]
I gots 1600 watts to 2 subs so 3200 watts total... i bang |
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knatebetz
Joined: Apr 19 2008 Posts: 1477 Location: Nebraska 1992 Toyota Celica Last updated: 05/09/08 |
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i used 75 watts for each of my subs.. most of the time i keep them at 1/10th of the level sounds its not ear shattering.
i have 2 10's and spent 400-500 total on the subs, amp (cheap amp but sounds decent), and the fg box i built. they've also rattled everything loose in my car so its a noisy ride on the inside with every bump i hit. 1 10 or 1 12 should be sufficient for everyday driving. |
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alkatmsu
Joined: Nov 08 2005 Posts: 1480 Location: Kentucky 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier Last updated: 02/10/08 2007 Ford Fusion Last updated: 08/31/09 |
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I went with the single 12", 400w. Got it put in yesterday, and I'm liking it so far
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SuBXeRo
Joined: Oct 31 2003 Posts: 1856 Location: River Edge New Jersey and ASU 1996 Infiniti I30 Last updated: 07/23/08 2008 Nissan Altima Last updated: 08/12/09 |
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for rock, a ported box is a good choice.
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Tat2Dragons
Joined: Jan 21 2007 Posts: 2102 Location: Baltimore Maryland 2003 Honda Element Last updated: 09/21/07 |
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But a sealed box would be an even better choice. |
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alkatmsu
Joined: Nov 08 2005 Posts: 1480 Location: Kentucky 1998 Chevrolet Cavalier Last updated: 02/10/08 2007 Ford Fusion Last updated: 08/31/09 |
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I have a sealed box. I really like it.
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corvettecrazy
Joined: Dec 17 2003 Posts: 3773 Location: moved (twice) 1996 Pontiac Bonneville Last updated: 06/11/07 2000 Chevrolet Corvette Last updated: 08/31/04 |
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Agreed. Since when is ported the "good choice" for rock? |
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SuBXeRo
Joined: Oct 31 2003 Posts: 1856 Location: River Edge New Jersey and ASU 1996 Infiniti I30 Last updated: 07/23/08 2008 Nissan Altima Last updated: 08/12/09 |
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ported boxes can be sloppier with faster bass, rock isnt always a fast bass, in most cases it isnt. I am not saying sealed is bad, for certain boxes compliment different styles of music better.
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lunasea
Joined: May 11 2007 Posts: 150 Location: some where in canada |
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I bought a 600Watts RMS 1200 peak Sony 3/4 channel amp in january 07 in new zeland on holiday *vaccation*
which cost about $350-400. It cost about $500 in shops in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada when I checked. so glad I got it an could afford to lose the luggage space. bought a fairly cheap 10 inch sony sub 1100 watts peak i think rms is like 300 or 350 ish. From wal mart of all places! also bought the cheap looking 20 bucks non-ported sub enclosure. Some 170 watt peak power 6.5" Kenwoods bought for 25 dubai dollar thingys which equals £5 so $10 in Dubai international airport *it was a good round the world trip that year for my sisters wedding in Australia* Wired it all up myself with a cheap wiring kit I bought I think 8 gauge wire for the positive. Thanks in part to the people of oznium for answering my few questions instructions should all be there to help setup the amp if its your first time tinkering with one. Soo yea Had it for what 3 years now Super Impressed. My first was a crappy 300w peak Fusion sub and amp 12" which was awesome at the time but far from perfect. an while buying the amp at the audio store in newzeland the Guy really helped me out with advice like the difference in sub sizes and usage an such. 10 is perfect for your needs it can do sharp punchy beats and fairly low frequency's too 30-35Hz kinda range. Personally I listen to a very broad range of music: Classical, Indie, Japanese trance, HardStyle, Rock, Prog-rock, nu-metal, scremo, chillout. A whole lot to be fair. an a 10" Delivers! Also by having 2 10"s you keep the punchy beats aswell as increasing sub size. *the salesman in the audio shop was telling me figures* like how 4 10"s beats 2 12's or a single 15. He was talking surface area of the sub's woofer cone an at the time it just went over my head. I blabbered on alot I know. bottom line is Your going for looks that's fairly obvious. 300W rms You will not go wrong with even turning it up loud! you'll get annoyed by the sound before you blow a sub in my opinion. |