Need cheap subs and amp reccomendations

please scroll down, for I have been better educated.

You can get pyramids for like 18 bucks / sub

pOrk wrote:

You can get pyramids for like 18 bucks / sub

where?

my friend just got an amp/sub from pep boys or something..you cant hear it unless your ear like right next to it..not worth it in my opinion

we NEED something...but I am pretty clueless as to whats good and bad when it comes to audio stuff.

for 150 you can replace your speakers with decently nice ones and get a better effect

pOrk wrote:

You can get pyramids for like 18 bucks / sub

I have a Pyramid 600x2 amp I bought for 60 bucks

150 for a sub/amp...haha ya ok. get ur self 2 pyriamd 12s off ebay and a pyriamd amp...u can have a "system" for under $100

You're asking audiophiles to recommend piece of **** audio equipment to you... Here, we recommend quality, not crap. If you want crap, you can go to any multipurpose store and buy their crap. If you want quality, don't expect to get 2 subs and an amp to power them for $150. Hell, be happy if you get a decent amp for $150...

I don't understand what it is you are asking for. How can we recommend something for under $150 when there is nothing but crap.. crap is crap.. That's like voting in this year's Election.. vote for one boob or the other.. they're both boobs... =P

Take your $150 dollars, and throw it out in traffic, it will be more entertaining, watching people dodge cars to grab the bills, but less of a waste of money....

http://www.etronics.com
they carry Legacy brand.. which is Pyramid, Pyle..and all the other bad brands.. but check it out

Thank you Recon... I will look into that site.

To everyone else... I realize it may seem dumb to only spend a small amount on a system but I don't need a big booming system in my trunk and while it may be cool, I dont want one. So while what I am doing may seem really stupid (which it may be) unless you are going to offer a useful suggestion caould you please keep it to yourself.

Since most of you don't like my idea this would be mostly for Recon I guess...

AMP:
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=pyrpb446x&store=&catid=306



SUBS:
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=leglwfx107&store=&catid=368



any thoughts?

meh, it will make noise........

i'd go for it

CorvetteCrazy, you apparently don't have a grasp on audio, and quality. You also don't realize that I'm not trying to insult you. I'm just being honest.

An audio system doesn't have to be a "big booming system". But there is a difference between listening to music that sounds like it's being played through a bullhorn, and listening to music like it was originally meant to be heard.

You want to buy amps from companies that lie about every one of the specs of their amps, give you the lowest quality stuff they can find, and tell you it's as powerful as the big dawg amps. You want to buy speakers that are made from recycled toilet paper... This is what products like Pyramid are.

If you want a sound system that sounds good but isn't overkill, then ask for that, but don't expect to spend only $150. There is a such thing as a decent and affordable system. You are asking for something for nothing. You will get exactly what you are asking for. Nothing.

The "Big Booming Systems" with big JL W7's and such are usually costing a few hundred for the sub and $500 or more for the amp. That's when you are starting to get into the more expensive stuff. For $250 (that is if you make your own box), you can get a decent sub (like an Alpine Type R which is quite popular through the members of this forum) and an amp that can power it. It's affordable, it sounds excellent, and the quality of Alpine's cheapest sub is higher than the best sub Pyramid makes.

Is it really worth it to you to go spend $150 for a sub and an amp, find out they both suck, sound like total crap, and you were better off with your stock stereo and no sub? Spend a little more, get a whole lot more quality, and be much more pleased with your investment. And remember, the investment is long term. When you get rid of the car you have now, you can relocate the sub and amp to your next car.

Think about how many time you go rent a movie, or go to the movies.. for 2 hours of pleasure, then it's over. Spend upwards of $10 for a single 2 hour movie at the theater. So you watch 10 movies at the theaters, there's your additional $100.... So to sacrifice 20 hours worth of movie entertainment, think of how many hundreds-thousands of hours you will have enjoying your sound system when you are stuck in traffic.

In the end, while some spend a lot of money on insane subwoofers to compete in SPL competitions, a lot of us just spend a lot of money on a good quality system as we know we will get countless hours of entertainment/pleasure from it, and it will pay for itself many times over.

Hell, I'm thinking about getting a system for my work van. It's not even my van; it belongs to the company I work for. But I'm so sick of being stuck in traffic with the stock radio, no cd player and crappy speakers, that I'm tempted to drop $500-$1000 on a decent system for the van. If I lose the job, I'll still have the stock stuff saved, I'll just pull my stuff and put the stock stuff back in, and move my stuff to the next company van of the next job I get, or I'll pawn it off for close to the same price I spent on it.

Just think about how much you drive your car, how often you are in it, how often you are stuck in traffic, and you will see why we spend the extra cash on our car stereo, and maybe you will consider spending a little more on yours as well. If you came over here and heard my stereo, you'd not even want to turn yours on for the next week as every time you did, you'd be so disapointed at the poor sound quality of the stock system that it'd just about force you to get a better system.

There's nothing like going mach 10 down the freeway with your windows rolled down, and your system is so clear at high levels that it feels like you are at the concert, and you don't hear the wind blowing through your windows at all.

So don't think I'm trying to insult you. Just realize that when we tell you it's a waste of money, we mean it. We aren't trying to steer you in the wrong direction. If you want to go in the wrong direction, you are welcome to go down that path on your own. If you want our advice, many of us are more than happy to help you on a decent system that's affordable and sounds good. But remember, some of us do this stuff for a living. We know what's good and what's not. We know what you'll be happy with and what you'll be very disapointed with. Nobody is happy with their Wal-Mart piece of crap speakers/subs. Don't be afraid to ask, but expect an honest, straight forward answer. You aren't going to buy a sub and amp that can power the sub for less than $150 total, and get something that sounds even remotely good. It will distort when you turn it up, it will sound like crap, it will degrade extremely fast, and you will eventually say screw it, get rid of it, and buy a better one, only to have that equipment thrown in the trash. You can take my advice, or you can go out and get the equipment and throw away your $150 in less than a year.

yah why not...
I have that amp for about a year and honestly its not that bad for the price, most people say spend money! and you get quality,, but I have to say different with that company

But dont get me wrong.. it still wont sound that great, but it will be better than nothing, just get a good box

And what are you powering with it Recon? Pyramid subs? Take the "total output" of that amp and divide it by 10 and that's what it's really putting out. And that's if you are lucky. That amp probably puts out slightly more than an aftermarket stereo deck. Junk... You take that amp and hook it up to a sub like the Alpine Type R that draws 300W RMS, and you will overheat that amp.

When you are looking at the rating on that amp, it's telling you what the PEAK output is, not the RMS. A simplistic way of looking at it is Peak is how much power it can handle in a short spiked burst... (say it peaks 300W for a split second every once in a rare while). RMS is what it can put out nonstop without having problems. With the Sub, Peak is what it can peak up to, and RMS is what it normally tries to draw from the amp.

Pyramid doesn't list their RMS because their RMS is so incredibly low, they wouldn't sell a single amp if people understood how it worked. That 300W Peak output amp probably only really puts out 20W RMS. Now go look at your subs... The cheapest Alpine sub they make draws something like 100W RMS.

Hell, look at some low-medium end Pioneer regular speakers. Even they draw more than 20W RMS. Thus is why that amp sucks.

In addition it's THD is probably through the roof. (THD = Total Harmonic Distortion)... The amp is crap, and there aren't many brands out there that can beat the crappiness that Pyramid continues to give when they steal your money.

Pioneer has some cheap stuff. *shrugs* They're regular speakers sound alright for the price.

If I were you, don't buy subs. Get a nice set of aftermarket speakers for that 150.

Or perhaps a new headunit?

Subs that cheap really aren't worth it. You won't hear them enough to actually fill in the missing low frequencies. If you do hear them, they'll be rather distorted.

Actually I have it powering to L5 10"s I have had it to those for a month or so

I admit..its not that great, but it never distorts.

The reason I have that amp is because its all I can afford, im looking into a different amp for the kickers but im not sure yet.

Ok, so I guess I started this whole thing off on the wrong note (no pun intended).

Just think about how much you drive your car,
The problem is that, its not really my car, its my moms. I'm not allowed to have a car because of my dad, which a complete rant within itself.

how often you are in it,
I will admit I am in it a fair amount

how often you are stuck in traffic
Not alot, I drive mostly back country roads and work my hardest to avoid any main road. But I do get stuck sometimes


Anyway, I guess I should start a new thread on the right note, asking for help getting more bass (subs or just new speakers) out of my moms car. Maybe tomorrow I'll make a thread...

i disagree with most above me...one of my setups only cost me about 150 buxz....and it hit harder then anyone elses...its all about the install people....this is what i have....
I went to circuit city...and bought 2 MTX RT12-04 (got a deal for 2 for $70) but they are only like $39 now or sumthing and i also bought a Profile CA600MSX for $50
I then built a 6.5ft^3 box tuned to 45HZ...and it will give you the bass you want and more i promise you....
You will be lucky to find the AMP at and cicuit city anymore for some reason....but you can order them off line for like 60 bones or what not
well thats my story...
peace

Bobberrific wrote:

Pioneer has some cheap stuff. *shrugs* They're regular speakers sound alright for the price. If I were you, don't buy subs. Get a nice set of aftermarket speakers for that 150. Or perhaps a new headunit? Subs that cheap really aren't worth it. You won't hear them enough to actually fill in the missing low frequencies. If you do hear them, they'll be rather distorted.

X2

you can get an Resonant Engineering RE10 or RE12 for around $60, and I just picked up a RF punch 200M off ebay for $100.

Shipping and install materials (wiring, etc) will put that to closer to $200, but that will actually be a really nice setup in a good ported box


...and to the guys that frown on walmart stuff...

My 1st sub was a $15 "300watt" 6 inch bass tube from walmart with a <$100 power acoustik amp. It was actually pretty damn impressive for the price to me at the time (before I got a good ear for audio) and it boomed in my little hatchback. Point is it was a lot of fun, and it got me bitten by the audio bug. It was a good starting point.

BTW even "audio guys" should be impressed by my above reccommendation tho...

go for the RE's if you can....great subs....got 4 RE8's and they are great little subs

I bought 2 12" Meta subs on the internet for 20$ (for the pair) and did a 145 with my hatch open (AudioControl Mic -- My real setup did a 150.2 that night) in a prefab sealed box .... which when I called the tech support was the "ideal enclosure" for SPL. I powered it with my old MMATS d300HC too

Those subs owned all. I recommend those....hell, I want those again

id recommend a speaker upgrade to handbuilt MB QUART speakers, then worrya bout getting a good set of subs and an amp

any MB quarts you can get for $150 arent worth having... and nowhere near as fun to play with as a crappy sub that lets you fool with amp settings and try different enclosure designs

The thing with the stock system is that it is cheap but for a non upgraded system (except the HU...still stock but the "better" one) they speakers hit pretty damn hard. I am able to vibrate the front and rear glass to the point where the rear view mirror is just a joke, the body pannels will and do rattle with songs w/o much bass. I also love the stock HU because it has the equalizer bars to play with, which is quite fun.

I g2g to dinner more later.

What do you guys think of the MTX road thunder series? just curious.

MTX used to make kick ass subs back in the day. From what I hear, they've gone down a lot in sub quality, but I haven't heard any of the newer MTX subs, so I have nothing to compare them to. MTX is by far better than Pyramid however. MTX Amps, I still haven't had any problems with, and they are usually pretty straight forward with their output. They give realistic numbers both at the 14.4v that everyone rates their crap at (which nobody will ever run it at), and at 12.5v which is more realistic.

A properly built enclosure is important, however I don't think his mom would approve of a 6.5 cubic foot box filling her trunk... no room for groceries etc...

The other issue is it may hit hard in that box, but ported boxes require better subs to sound decent than sealed. A crappy sub in a ported box would only make the sub even more sloppy and the bass would sound even more distorted etc...

A ported box however doesn't require as much power to push the sub as you have less air resistance it has to go against... This is why you can power subs off of weaker amps in a ported and not have as much problems.

Mav... I have tried to IM you a few times but never get a response.

I keep looking at different subs and was talking to a friend online and I heard his system a little and he has JL 10W0's.

So I looked into them and wondered if one JL 10W0 powereed by 125 watts would be a good choice. I say 125 after looking at the chart that JL had on their website.

Any opinions on that sub and opinions on what amp to power it? Sealed or ported?

I have access to ALL the things I would need to make a killer sub box. (table saw, CNC router, Laser, Surfacer, Jig saw, router, spindle sander, belt sander, disk sander, radial arm saw, I can't remember all of them.)

corvettecrazy wrote:

What do you guys think of the MTX road thunder series? just curious.

I have the RT12-04 actaully 2 in a 6.5ft^3 box and they pound hard...i got 2 for 70 when circuit city was having a sale on them and i just piked them up...i only have about 200 watts going to each and they pound the **** out of my Navi

corvettecrazy wrote:

Mav... I have tried to IM you a few times but never get a response.

Mav's a busy man, just shoot him a PM here, and he will answer it, he has helped me out alot..

Good guy Mav is...

Sorry, I work a lot, and lately I've been sick, so I haven't been on the computer much. The last week I've been working a lot of overtime and driving 300 miles or so per day on average... I haven't been around much because of that.

so my friend and I went to circuit city and decided that for my money (and to be friendly to my moms 8 year old car) that we would get 2 RT1004s. I didn't buy them yet but they do sound very nice.

What I need now is a good/decent amp. 150x2 at 4 ohms would be my guess but you guys know more than me.

RT1004 specs:

Model Description................................RT10-04 10" Subwoofer
Imped. .............................................. 4 ohm
FrequencyResponse ............................35 Hz-150 Hz
PowerHandling(RMS) ...........................200 Watts
Recom.amplifierPower .........................100-200 Watts
Sensitivity(SPL2.83V/1M) ......................91.1 dB
MagnetWeight ......................................30oz (850g)
MountingDepth ...................................4.616"(117.2mm)



although the MZS1004 sounded amazing I cant afford them.

http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLBP3001Z

http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLCS2001

http://www.cardomain.com/item/LITB23501

http://www.cardomain.com/item/POWLT9802

JBL PB300...

JBL BP-300.1Z Subwoofer Mono Amp
150W • 300W at 2 Ohms • Switching Amplifier Technology • 1-ohm Stable • Factory Renewed
Product id: JBLBP3001Z $139.95 $139.95


MTX Audio RT10-04R 2-Pack Subwoofer
10-Inch 4 Ohms • Factory Renewed • 2-Pack Promotion
Product id: MTXRT1004R2PAK pair $39.95 $39.95


Streetwires PS08R Amplifier Wiring Kit
8 Gauge Kit • Red / Silver Cable • Single Amplifier Systems
Product id: STRPS08R $31.95 $31.95


Subtotal: $211.85

^^ Sounds good to me!