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DIY Boombox

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J.Pribb

Joined: Oct 17 2004
Posts: 453
Location: Lake City, Fl


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Post Sun Sep 19, 2010 11:49 am

Hey folks. Been awhile since Ive posted,, been lurking tho.

Got a bike project and this DIY Boombox. Lets keep this topic to the boombox. Im wanting to use an old headunit and some spare speakers to make a loud boombox for work (hangar workfloor lots of airtools). I have a box laid out now I just need some help with the actual power wiring. Im curious as to which leads need to have power and which need the ground.

In the picture you can see what wire does what. I have an AC/DC converter that im hoping will allow me to convert a 7 wire bundle down to the 2 wires for the convertor.

I have my old factory head unit.


And I have my convertor


I will use an inline fuse as usual. But after that Im confused as to what to wire to the positive wire and what to the negative.

Im hoping that this boombox will be loud more than a bassy like a boombox. I just want something I can listen to the radio and my MP3 player while using loud air tools or across a distance.

If someone could help me out with a list of what to wire to what I would appreciate it immensely.

Also,, what would be the best way to wire in my MP3 player? Get one of those old cassette to "inline" wire and use that as my line in?
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
Posts: 3550


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Post Sun Sep 19, 2010 12:09 pm

You will need power to the Bat and Acc wires You will have to have constant power to the Bat connection to keep the presets when you turn the unit off the ac/dc unit you have is no where near big enough most need 15 amps (or whatever size the acc fuse is in the car)You'll need two fuses likely a 5 for the bat and a 15 for the acc
You will need the harnesses out of a Chrysler vehicle or these :

You can wire the unit you have to the bat connection to keep the presets then use the other supply to power the unit.
16/18 gauge wire is OK
J.Pribb

Joined: Oct 17 2004
Posts: 453
Location: Lake City, Fl


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Post Sun Sep 19, 2010 12:19 pm

I didnt think the converter I had was big enough, but I thought hey, why not try. Ok,, I understand what ur saying, but I will not have a switched source,, once I unplug it I will loose my presets.

So what convertor would you suggest,, size is an issue,, along with price.

I thought about getting a small gel battery and just using a trickle charger on it at night, but that requires abit more funds than I was hoping. Also that would require more space and make it quite heavy. The size Im allowed is a box of 10w by 7h by 15L.
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
Posts: 3550


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Post Sun Sep 19, 2010 1:14 pm

Icedoutjetta

Joined: Sep 18 2005
Posts: 814
Location: Guelph Ontario Canada


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Post Sun Sep 19, 2010 3:20 pm

yea just use the obove mentioned power suply and then with a fuse of both wires wire up the batt positive (usually yellow ) through a fuse to the suply and then the ground to the negative and then the acc wire ( usually red ) to a toggle switch then to the positive and there ya go the toggle switch is your key in the car you will always have your presets as long as you dont unplug the power suply, i did this in my locker in highschool i used a batttery pack that jump starts a car and took it home to charge since i didnt have a wall plug around but it will work and be plenty lioud just keep in mind its a headunit and your not going to get crazy bass
J.Pribb

Joined: Oct 17 2004
Posts: 453
Location: Lake City, Fl


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Post Sat Sep 25, 2010 4:52 pm

Alright, so Im kinda having a problem finding an appropriate sexed plug so im just gonna go ahead and solder on some new wire leads.

Would someone be so kind as to write up a chart so that a 3yr old could understand what to wire to what. Never mind about saving presets or any of that,, will be wired to only be powered by wall socket.

BATT- pos?
ACC-pos?
ILL- pos?
Park-neg?
RF- -neg?
LF- -neg?

Sorry but im aibt thickskulled and a "hold my hand" approach is needed.

THanks for all the advice. I have ordered the power supply you mentioned. Much cheaper on OZ then tigerdirect, office max, walmart. Also got some lights for the bike.

Pribb
I will also post pics of build once I start.
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
Posts: 3550


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Post Sat Sep 25, 2010 5:13 pm

OK it's FAR easier to go to ANY JUNKYARD and cut out the Harness out of any Dodge /Chrysler from 80 on ...

Batt and ACC go to 12V +
Ill and Park No connection needed
LF- = Left Front Speaker Negitive connection
RF- = Right Front Speaker Negitive Connection

Other speaker connections are Similar
LR Left Rear
RR Right Rear
-/+ are as listed
J.Pribb

Joined: Oct 17 2004
Posts: 453
Location: Lake City, Fl


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Post Sat Sep 25, 2010 5:18 pm

so where do i ground the radio to? Or is it just the power wire coming in and the power supply takes care of the ground. I guess that part is whats confusing me. I thought the radio needed a ground connection.
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
Posts: 3550


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Post Sat Sep 25, 2010 5:33 pm

negitive goes to the radio case
J.Pribb

Joined: Oct 17 2004
Posts: 453
Location: Lake City, Fl


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Post Mon Sep 27, 2010 5:57 pm

Alright, got another question for you Venge. Are all positive leads coming from the power supply a full 12v? Ive read on other power supplies that some leads are onl 5v. The power supply should be here any day now.
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
Posts: 3550


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Post Tue Sep 28, 2010 2:58 am

Yes they are multiple voltages output on the computer supplies. There's a thread on here somewhere about this
J.Pribb

Joined: Oct 17 2004
Posts: 453
Location: Lake City, Fl


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Post Tue Oct 12, 2010 5:32 pm

Well I recieved my power supply and LEDs all nice from Philbish. I did some rough layouts and bought my wood. Trying to figure out how to fit everything in there and still retain functionality was the most frustrating part.

Long story short. Viola, I have an extremely loud portable radio. I even have enough room for a small gel 12v battery. I just got it all together. I still have some sanding, and I think i will stain it to match my toolbox top. Gonna fill the seams with some skyflex tape to ensure a airtight fit. Im wondering if a port would/should be used.

15x9x7. Fits nicely into a toolbox drawer or cabinet.


Better lit, but i like the pic above better.


Power supply


Remember this is just a rough start, and still in progress. Will post pics more after this weekend. Was thinking that either a 3inx1in slot or 2in diameter hole inbetween the speakers would be a good spot for a port. Also plan on adding 2 3.5 speakers in the upper corners if space is willing.

Guts shots to come this weekend.
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
Posts: 3550


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Post Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:03 am

Glad you finally got it together ... From an Audio standpoint the speakers should be boxed individually to prevent cancellation/backbeating
J.Pribb

Joined: Oct 17 2004
Posts: 453
Location: Lake City, Fl


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Post Wed Oct 13, 2010 1:05 pm

Well venge,, due to extreme lack of extra space thats not gonna happen, lol. It does sound really good, but there is an off tone,, i bet it does have something to do with the speakers not being sealed in thier own enclosure. Oh wells, its just a work radio,, it picks up radio stations like no other and thats what really counts.

Thanks for you help.
H-Balm

Joined: Oct 28 2010
Posts: 11


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Post Tue Nov 23, 2010 2:57 am

Cool project.
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