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Superflux wiring

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Storm

Joined: Apr 23 2012
Posts: 9


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Post Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:50 pm

Need a little help with this one. I have installed four superflux led in my daughters power wheels mustang. Two in the headlights and two in the tai lights. I am a bit fuzzy as to how to wire them up to the rocker switch. The car is set up as a 12volt system, the more she drives the less battery power dwindles. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Respectfully,
Storm
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
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Post Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:53 pm

are you using prewired(with resistors) or raw LEDs ?

https://www.oznium.com/forum/topic20
Storm

Joined: Apr 23 2012
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Post Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:17 am

jmoddes

Joined: Apr 25 2011
Posts: 2142
Location: Kenosha, Wi


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Post Tue Apr 24, 2012 7:00 am

well with powerwheels the battery drains automatically. it doesn't recharge itsself as if its an actual car. thats what really sucks. The which has 3 connections. the tech page shows ya what to do with what. just incase, here is the image.

User posted image


The lights do NOT take that much power but moving that power wheels drains a TON of the battery. If they were as GOOD as what they were back in the day, you'd get 30 minutes play time on it... but because everything now a days is so cheaply made, i'd guess 10-15 minutes. Only other thing I'd say is get like a small motorcycle battery and have 2 batteries for the power wheels.

(I Hope i answered your question)
Storm

Joined: Apr 23 2012
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Post Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:36 pm

Okay, Not sure how it happened but the wires melted and the car stopped dead in it's tracks. I have her car wired up for a 24 volt system. No before you say I over powered the leds, I did a voltage check at the switch to make sure I was only getting 12volts and not 24. From out of the front batter I have it so that the the lights and switch are wired for 12 volts only. I spliced four wires out of the batter, so one set of wires is going for the 4 leds and the other two are running back to the the other battery in series.

I know you are all helping me out, and thank you for that. Are the superflux leds suppose to be wired independent or are they suppose to be wired together and then to the batter for power. I had it like this.

Front lights, red wire from led 1 ties in with red wire from led2, then the same for led 3 to led 4. Once the reds were tied together in pairs, I tied them all together before sending them inside the car. Black wire from leds the same was as red. So the right set of two headlights are tied together along with the left two. To make it less of a spaghetti mess inside the car compartment I tied them together. I upload some pics so you can see what i did better.
Storm

Joined: Apr 23 2012
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Post Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:57 pm

And I havn't figure out how it upload a pic yet. Give me time and I will.

Sigh......
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
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Post Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:02 pm

OK
Pre wired LED's are wired red = Positive Black=Negative

Since you MELTED the wires sounds like you DID NOT use a fuse ... Otherwise the fuse would have blown before melting wires...

I'm Betting you miswired the switch and somehow shorted it causing the wires to fry
Storm

Joined: Apr 23 2012
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Post Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:09 pm

No, I had a fuse inline one the positive side of the wiring and it was 10 amp fuse. Not sure what happened. Could the LED's go bad from that now? And I did just to make sure, ordered a new switch.
jmoddes

Joined: Apr 25 2011
Posts: 2142
Location: Kenosha, Wi


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Post Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:16 pm

that is why. its a 10 amp fuse.

these led's draw SOO little. you NEED a 3 amp fuse.. if possible i'd even try to get a 1.5A

i agree with bad venge. you have a short from how you wired the switch :/. get a MUCH smaller fuse and try it.. i bet it'll pop. :/

for the switch.. only ONE line is ground... make sure you get that right (the ones I have are all on the led side like the image shows).

the middle line is power IN. so from

battery----(wire)-----|3A fuse|----(wire)------- {Middle line on switch}.

from that last spot on the switch goes to your positive lead to the leds (red wire to led's).
jmoddes

Joined: Apr 25 2011
Posts: 2142
Location: Kenosha, Wi


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Post Tue Apr 24, 2012 3:22 pm

to help make SURE that no wires touch.. make sure you electrical tape each line coming off the strip. its really small I know, but just helps make SURE that you don't have wires touching shorting the line out. hope that helps and good luck!
Tdawgthegreatest

Joined: Jul 22 2007
Posts: 5093
Location: Florence, Oregon


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Post Tue Apr 24, 2012 8:59 pm

sounds like you either wired the switch wrong, or one of your wires are grounding out on something that they arent suppose to.
Storm

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Post Fri May 04, 2012 5:29 pm

Okay, so everything is now rewired. I hope that the wiring is correct. So before I hook it up to power I am going to run it by you all to make sure that its wired up right.

So like I said before these are the Superflux Led's. I have four of them in the front, one for each of her pretend headlights. I wired those all together by splicing the four reds down into two red wires and that was spliced further down to just one heading into the car and to the switch. I then did the same thing for the black wires.

Now for the power wires. What I did was, instead of tapping into the car internal wiring and potentially getting 24 volts by accident. I just cut the battery wires and spliced in two more that would be used just for the lights. That way there could never be 24 volts going to the switch, just 12 volts only.

So I ran the battery wire to the power side of the switch, I ran the ground on the switch to the battery ground and ground on the Leds. Then with the red wires all tied together from the Led's, I ran those to the Alt on the switch. If I did this all right and the wiring is correct then, she will have a 12volts running the lights and nothing will melt again.

If I am wrong let me know and I can fix it before power is supplied.

Thanks y'all.
bad venge

Joined: Jul 28 2007
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Post Fri May 04, 2012 5:43 pm

I'd VERIFY the voltage with a voltmeter ...

I didn't see you mention a fuse either
Storm

Joined: Apr 23 2012
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Post Sat May 05, 2012 5:52 am

Yup Voltage checked out at the switch at 12volts and there is a 3 amp fuse between the switch and the power.
Tdawgthegreatest

Joined: Jul 22 2007
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Location: Florence, Oregon


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Post Sat May 05, 2012 8:37 pm

What do you mean "Cut into the battery wires"?
jmoddes

Joined: Apr 25 2011
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Location: Kenosha, Wi


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Post Sat May 05, 2012 8:44 pm

i think he means coming from the battery...?
Storm

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Post Tue May 15, 2012 9:19 am

Sorry about the delay in between messages, jmoddes is right. The car is only suppose to have one battery providing power, I modified the car so now it has two. The battery in the front compartment has four wires coming off the battery now instead of the normal two. This was done to allow the car to run on its modified 24 volt system now, but also allowing me to wire up the superflux LED's to have only 12 volts. Otherwise if I would have tapped into the power wires elsewhere it would have been 24 volts.
jmoddes

Joined: Apr 25 2011
Posts: 2142
Location: Kenosha, Wi


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Post Tue May 15, 2012 11:18 am

What I don't understand is how you're getting 24 volts? If you meter your batteries it says 24 volts!? I would LOVE to know how. I have 4 car batteries and i'm only at 14 when the cars off O.o.


but from your post i'm hoping everything is working or are you still having the issues?
Cooper

Joined: Mar 19 2006
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Post Wed May 16, 2012 11:22 pm

If this is a "power wheels" type kids vehicle, and you modified it by adding a second 12v battery in series, did you also replace the battery re-charger that came with the vehicle ?

I'm trying to think of the mechanics of that.. would two 12v batteries in series still charge to 12v apiece and then run at 24v when in operation ? Or would the charger only be capable of charging the two batteries in series together to a total of 12v overall ? Brain teaser . icon_eek.gif
jmoddes

Joined: Apr 25 2011
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Location: Kenosha, Wi


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Post Thu May 17, 2012 8:04 am

both batteries together no matter which way you hook them up will give 12 volts.

if you hook

+ to +

- to -

then how this works the draw will be from battery ONE until nothing is left where battery TWO will come in play

if you do

+ to -
- to +

now you're acting as one GIANT battery where draw is equal from both.
Storm

Joined: Apr 23 2012
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Post Sun May 20, 2012 4:36 pm

Okay, to answer a few of your questions in order here. Jmoddes I hooked two 12 volts together in series. To do that I wired it up this way... Starting with the car's wiring, I took the Car's Positive wire and hooked it to the original batteries positive. I took the Car's negative wire and hooked that up to the new battery I installed. Then I hooked the original batteries negative wire to the positive wire on the new battery. That is how I gave myself the 24 volts constant. So, if you look back in some of the previous posts that I put up, I described having to run a separate set of wires in addition to the original wires coming out of the battery, this would ensure that I only had 12 volts going to the switch and the lights. Remember that you have to run some additional wires to get this to work. If I knew how to upload a quick photo to this site I would and it would show you better what I mean.

Now for Cooper, the way that I have wired up the power wheels mustang doesn't mean that I need to charge the batteries with a 24 volt charger. I use the original chargers and charge them on their own.

And I havn't had a chance to see if my wiring now works, I have had to contend with finals first.
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